Organized chronologically, beginning
with the romantic Victorian era and cov-
ering styles and periods in every decade
to the present, the volume features major
designers, including Marcel Boucher, who
worked for Cartier in the 1910s, Czech
enamel brooch designer Sandor, Chanel,
Elsa Schiaparelli and more. Within each
section, Tanenbaum offers details that
encapsulate each period, shares pointers
on collecting and includes an invaluable
glossary of terms.
Tanenbaum is a fan of the designs
from the 1950s, in part because of what
she calls the "wow" factor, influenced
greatly by Hollywood.
"I love the impact of the scale and
great color and design," says Tanenbaum.
"Branding also became big in the '50s,
making the jewelry an entity in itself"
Much like major Hollywood stars
who are provided designer gowns on the
red carpet today, various actresses, such
as Joan Crawford and Audrey Hepburn,
advertised designers like Haskell and
Trifari. However, one need not mourn the
end of their style. Thanks to Tanenbaum
and stars like Sarah Jessica Parker, who
prefers vintage to fashion-forward dic-
tates, the tradition continues.
Interestingly, at least 50 percent of the
designers featured in Tanenbaum's book
are Jewish. Miriam Haskell is one of the
most well known, says Tanenbaum.
"There's such a degree of excellence
in the execution of each piece," including
the faux pearls she developed to look lik
true baroque (irregularly shaped) pearls

and her colored pieces, which are widely
coveted by collectors.
Among other included Jewish design-
ers are Joseph Mazer, Gustave Sherman,
Eisenberg and Tanenbaum's personal
favorite, Henry Schreiner, known for
inverting crystals so the point is up, there-
by creating "dazzling prismatic effects."
According to Tanenbaum, today's fash-
ionistas are going for longer-than-opera-
length, multilayered Swarovski crystal and
blownglass necklaces. And layers and lay-
ers of bracelets and necklaces are gaining
popularity, as is the brooch.
In today's auction market, says
Tanenbaum, vintage competes pricewise
with fine jewelry as a result of renewed
interest and scarce supply.
"Today, anything goes in fashion," says
Tanenbaum, "and vintage costume jewelry
is a great way to individualize your style,
while at the same time providing a great
sense of history and culture." 17

OTHERS WILL BE

The leaves from a 1960s
centerpiece have been
recycled into a candy-
colored brooch.

A profusion of stones
and beads in unusual
settings, as seen
in these brooches,
is characteristic of
1950s design.

Tips For Collecting

They have both been
attributed to Jewish
designers: The one
shown above is
signed "Haskell";
the one on the left
is attributed to
Schreiner.

Go Shopping

The Bloomfield Hills Antique Jewelry

& Vintage Apparel Show, featuring

35 dealers of fine antique jewelry, vin-

tage clothing and fashion accessories,

takes place 10-5 p.m. Saturday, May 13,

at the Birmingham Unitarian Church,

38651 Woodward Ave., Bloomfield Hills.

Admission: $5 for adults; children 12

and under free. (248) 988-0924.

Inspired to begin your own collection?
Carole Tanenbaum offers these point-
ers for getting started:
• Find dealer(s) you trust, who are
knowledgeable and reputable and spe-
cialize in what you're looking for. Other
good sources are antiques shows
with great reputations, auctions and
estate sales (but you need to know
what you're looking for). • Be cautious
of certain designers being repro-
duced (Weiss, Eisenberg, Jelly Bellies,
Haskell) and ask many questions. •
Buy signed pieces of the best possible
condition and design. • Stay away from
reconstructed pieces; look for evidence
of soldering or cracks. • Web sites like
eBay can turn up good finds, but be
cautious and find out the return policy.
• Expect to pay in the four-figure range
for a Haskell set; you can find a beauti-
ful unsigned pin for $50 (unsigned is
just as valuable, however it is some-
what neglected as consumers are more
attracted to signed pieces). • Go for
whatever you're attracted to; even if its
value is low, you'll still love the piece.

HUGE INCENTIVES ON

PPP

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MAY 2006 •

15