W
ho doesn't love roast
brisket, gefilte fish
and matzah ball soup
on Passover?
These mainstays of seder feasts
are eagerly anticipated by Passover
revelers every year, as most American-
style Jewish foods are of Ashkenazic
(Eastern European) origin. Even those
of us with Sephardic blood often fall
back on this unwavering yet delicious
menu.
But the epicurean traditions of our
Sephardic brothers and sisters can
bring new flavors — and perspectives
— to the table.
I grew up with those flavors in
my home. While both my parents
came to this country from Brazil, my
father's parents came to Brazil from
the Ottoman Empire. Every summer
when I was a young girl, I would visit
my grandmother in Brazil. She was a
wonderful cook; my father always mar-
veled over how she would take the sim-
plest ingredients and transform them
into spectacular dishes. At the time, I
didn't know that what I was eating was
Sephardic, or even Jewish. I just knew
it was delicious.
I happen to have a group of good
friends who love to try the recipes that
have been passed
down in my family.
For more than five
years, we have come
together to cook.
Loosely termed a
"class," we gather
in our homes and
try out new reci-
pes I've developed.
Because each class
revolves around a
theme — appetizers,
"company" food, etc.
— this year we tried
a Sephardic seder.
While Ash-kenaz-
im prohibit kitniyot
(peas, rice, legumes
The group sits down to feast on the fruits of their labor.
and maize) during
Passover, many — but
not all — Sephardim
allow the use of fresh
cumin, turmeric, coriander, saffron,
What's most important about
legumes and rice, mainly because they
nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon and others,
Sephardic flavors, though, has nothing
were the major sources of sustenance
all of which are readily available. Even
to do with kitniyot. Sephardic cook-
for Jews living in the countries of the
chefs who adhere to kitniyot can use
ing, in general, uses more spices than
Sephardic diaspora. However, bow-
Sephardic flavors. Rice can be replaced
Ashkenazi fare, and for very good
ing to local custom, some Sephardic
with matzah farfel (don't cook them
reason. Sephardic spices, when they
American families, such as my own,
the same way!), for example, and corn,
found their way to Eastern Europe,
still left rice, legumes and other kit-
beans and peas can be replaced with
were scarce and costly, often prohibi-
niyot off our Passover plates until
tively so. Today, Sephardic spices (those Passover-appropriate vegetables.
recently.
found in the diaspora) include cloves,
❑
Sephardic Apple and Dried Fruit Charoset
Chicken with Chickpeas and Zucchini
There are countless recipes for Charoset; this one uses fresh apples and dried fruits. Some peo-
ple cook and puree this mixture to a paste, while others prefer it uncooked and slightly chunky.
Ashkenazim don't eat chickpeas during
Passover, but the legumes are acceptable to
Sephardim. This dish can be made up to a
day in advance: Reheat for 45 minutes or
until very hot.
1 pound, approximately, sweet apples (Golden Delicious are a good choice) or pears, peeled or
unpeeled, cut into chunks
1 cup pitted dates
1 cup golden raisins (soaked for 1 hour in warm water)
1 cup dried figs, any variety (tough stem removed)
2 cups walnuts
Juice and grated zest of 1 orange
1/2 -1 cup red wine
2 Tbsp. honey or more to taste
Combine all ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until well chopped. Adjust
seasonings to taste and transfer the mixture to a serving dish. Cover and chill until a few hours
before serving. Serve at room temperature. Makes 12 or more servings.
8 small chicken-breast halves (about 3
pounds), visible fat removed
1 cup potato starch
1/4 cup olive oil, plus more if needed
2 cups chopped onions
1 tsp. minced garlic
2 cups chopped Roma or plum tomatoes
(or a
15-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained)
1/2 cup fresh chopped parsley
1/3 cup chopped fresh dill (or 1 Tbsp.
dried dill)
4 cups 1/2-inch sliced and diced zucchini
1 can (about 15 ounces) chickpeas or gar-
banzo beans, drained
Kosher salt and pepper to taste
Rinse chicken breasts in cold water. (If the
chicken breasts are very large or thick, slice
horizontally to make them smaller.) Season
well with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Place the potato starch in a shallow bowl
and dredge the chicken breasts in it, shaking off excess. Set aside.
Preheat oven to 350T.
Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the chicken breasts on both
sides until golden (you may need to do this in batches), adding more oil as needed. The chicken
breasts need not be cooked through. Transfer the chicken to a baking dish as they are cooked. Do
not clean the pan.
Add the onions and garlic to the pan and saute for about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, pars-
ley, dill, zucchini and chickpeas and cook for 3 minutes more. Season the vegetables to taste.
Spoon the vegetables over the chicken, cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Adjust salt
and pepper to taste and serve. Makes 8 servings.
Continued on page 38
JNPLATINUM • APRIL 2006 •
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