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allowed others to blithely "cheat" on
kashrut.
"My late cousin Danny, who was
kosher, along with many other other-
wise observant people I have known,
happily ate roast pork fried rice
because the meat was chopped into
such small pieces," Schwartz says.
"The attitude was, 'What I don't see
won't hurt me."'
In Schwartz's Brooklyn childhood
home, take-out Chinese vas often
offered, along with his grandmother's
refined Russian-Jewish cooking. Young
Arthur completed chores such as chop-
ping liver and cranking the meat
grinder; he also absorbed his grandfa-
ther's stories of selling pickles from a
pushcart during the Depression and
working as a curmudgeonly waiter in a
Romanian-Jewish steakhouse.
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Schwartz, for his part, got his first food
job by admitting he had no proven
qualifications.
"I have gathered instead three per-
sonal endorsements," he wrote to
Nezels-dav editors in the late 1960s.
"Arthur's oysters Rockefeller saved
our marriage — Elaine Schwartz, wife.
Arthur's pot roast is even better than
my mother's — Sydell Schwartz, moth-
er. Arthur's chocolate soufflé aggravates
my diabetes — Eva Rothseid, mother-
in- law."
Since then, the food writer — nick-
named ' f he Schwartz 'Who Ate New
York" — has knife-and-forked his way
through all five boroughs and has writ-
ten five books, including What to Cook
11 'hen You Think There Is Nothing in the
House to Eat.
Among food authors, he is known as
the culinary ambassador from Gotham:
"Arthur is a walking encyclopedia of
New York food, and certainly of New
York Jewish food," says Joan Nathan.
For Schwartz, opining about pastra-
mi and other Jewish fare W a S the easi-
est part of writing his new book. "It's
my life, my history" he says. ❑
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THE
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MOST
ANTICIPATED
ANNUAL SECTION!
11.
Fallow This Van fol. (be Best Posh
"Some of the most quintessential New York
foods are of Central and Eastern European
Jewish origin," writes Schwartz in his new
book. Among those culinary treasures: "Bagels
and lox, pastrami on rye, corned beef, pickles,
cheesecake, matzah balls, knishes."
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