Big Apple Bites
Arthur Schwartz's New York City Food offers a sublime
culinary journey through the food capital of the United States.
BY NAONII PFEFFER\IAN
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ANN{ SCH
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An Opinionated History
and More Than 100
Legendary Recipes
'''''''''''''
In New York City Food, Arthur Schwartz
relates each ethnic group's culinary
challenges and contributions.
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am not the first in my family
to be obsessed with food,"
writes Arthur Schwartz in
his new book, Neu; York City
Food (Stewart, Tabori &
Chang; $45). "I like to say I was born
with a wooden spoon in my mouth
because there was always cooking
going on, and I was always asked to
taste and offer my comments.
Enough salt? Enough pepper? Does
it have the right ta'ain?" he says,
using the Hebrew word for taste.
No wonder Schwartz became a
food critic, renowned for the outspo-
ken, droll persona he developed on
his former New York radio show and
as executive food editor at the New
York Daily News. Or that his award-
winning new book is the subtitled
"An Opinionated History."
The exhaustively researched work
presents Gotham's food personalities,
more than 100 "legendary" recipes
and ethnic cuisine, with loving atten-
tion to Jewish fare — "My soul
food," he writes.
Continued on page 40
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