Scent Of A Woman from page

7

irnommoi

Favorite Fragrances
Throughout History:

Napoleon - Houbigant's 4711 Cologne

Cameron Diaz - DNA

Nicole Kidman - Eau d'Hadrien

President George Washington -

Caswell-Massey No. 6 Cologne

Oprah Winfrey - Gardenia Passion

Longtime best sellers at
Sephora include Dolce
and Gabbana Light Blue
and Pink Sugar (right).
Its most popular new
scent: Calvin Klein's
Euphoria (above left).

Julia Roberts - L'Heure Bleu

Lana Turner - L'air Du Temps

Diana Ross - Liu

Evita Peron - J. Floris No. 127

Madonna - Fracas

Meryl Streep - Shalimar

Caswell-Massey,
whose devotees
included President
George Washington,
recently reinvented its
Greenbriar Collection,
a look "so vintage
that it's uniquely
modern."

Gloria Swanson - Youth Dew

Tina Turner - V'E Versace

Sharon Stone - Oscar de la Renta

Barbara Stanwyck - Jungle Gardenia

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis - 1000

Cher - Pheromone

Princess Grace of Monaco --

After processing, this creates just a few drops of flower
essence. (It takes 4 million jasmine flowers to produce
one pound of oil concentrate, she notes).
And that's just the start, because virtually every per-
fume features a blend -- sometimes into the thousands —
of different fragrances, Moran says. Add Indian sandal-
wood to the jasmine base and the price will jump again;
Indian sandalwood needs to sit for at least 30 years
before its fragrance is ready to be used.
All perfumes are created in three phrases, Moran says.
The first is the top note, followed by the heart note and
finally the base note; each is a different scent, but there
is something that binds them all. "Think of a symphony
which contains highs and lows, quick
and leisurely movements, yet always
repeats a theme," Moran says.
Though fragrances can carry an
Oriental, chypre (wood-like) or fruity
base, most perfumes start with a floral
theme. But "floral" hardly begins to
describe it.
There's Floral Green (think of a
clean mountain on a fresh day), such
as Chanel No. 19 and Jessica
McClintock; Floral Fresh (think a
spring bouquet), such as Anais Anias
and Noa; Floral Fruity (add some
pineapples and peach to the bouquet), exemplified by
Lauren and Calyx; Floral Marine (now a waterfall has
entered the picture), in fragrances like Fleur de Diva

8 • NOVEMBER 2005 • IN GIFT GUIDE I

and Cool Water Woman; Floral Aldehyde (a synthetic
mix -- "sparkling," says Moran), found in Chanel No. 5
and White Linen; Floral Ambery (a heavy, Oriental
addition), such as Oscar de la Renta and L'Heure Bleu;
and, finally, Floral Oriental (which brings spice into the
picture), as found in such fragrances as Coco,
Vanderbilt and Jil Sander No. 4.
Moran advises women (or the men who love them)
to buy only the amount of fragrance they will use with-
in 18 months after opening; otherwise, perfume can go
bad. Then apply it to the ears, inside the arms and
behind the knees -- and on the ankles, because fragrance
rises.
Or, Moran says, just follow Coco
Chanel's advice: "Perfume should be
sprayed wherever you expect to be
kissed."

Creed's Fleurissimo

created for her wedding day)

Marlene Dietrich - Indiscret

Princess Caroline of Monaco - Fracas

Michelle Pfeiffer - Acqua de Gio

Diana, Princess of Wales - Adoration

Barbra Streisand - Delicious

Jennifer Aniston - Anais, Anais

Martha Stewart - Antonia's Flowers

Annette Bening - Bijan

Sarah Bernhardt - Quelques Fleurs

Catherine Deneuve - Chamade

Queen Elizabeth II - Chloe Narcisse

Kate Moss - Chanel No. 5

Aretha Franklin - Bijan

Courtney Love - Fracas

Rita Hayworth - Shalimar

Barbara Bush - White Shoulders