10- Sarah Jessica Parker's "Lovely" made its debut this fall. a frenzy over perfumes," according to the poet Diane Ackerman wrote. International Museum of Perfumery. "One scent can be unexpected, Today, the perfume center of the world is in momentary and fleeting, yet Grasse, France, just west of Nice. Many perfumes conjure up a childhood sum- are produced here, and the city is home to some of mer beside a lake in the moun- the world's greatest "noses," or fragrance designers. tains." These are the men and women able to sort out the Fragrance not only conjures LOVELY SARAH JL4,,:CA PARKER up to 500 different fragrances that can make a sin- memories, it brings in big gle perfume. They start with a single scent, often a money. In 2005, sales nation- ong before "Marilyn popular flower such as jasmine or rose, to which wide are expected to reach Monroe: The Exhibit" anything from more florals to herbs to fruits (lemon more than $6 billion. even opened, patrons Longtime best sellers include and orange are popular) to synthetic creations are lined up outside the added. Tommy Hilfiger's True Star perfume is said classics like Chanel No. 5, Joy building that hosted the to include a whiff of rice pudding, a favorite of and Shalimar. Meanwhile, at event. The City of Hope fund- singer Beyonce, for whom the scent was designed. Sephora, the most fun cosmet- raiser, held last year in Indiana, Beyonce is just one celebrity who has, in recent ics store in the world, with featured a huge collection of months, added her name to a scent. Britney Spears local branches in Twelve Oaks Monroe memorabilia, ranging from curlers (with had Curious, then Fantasy. Sarah Jessica Parker Mall in Novi and the Somerset Collection in Troy, strands of the actress's famous white-blonde hair designed Lovely. popular fragrances are Dolce & Gabbana Light still tangled within), wigs, dresses, photos and a As lush as the fragrance itself is the marketing Blue, Pink Sugar and Carolina Herrera. One of the bottle of her favorite perfume, Joy. campaign behind it. These scents invariably are store's most popular new scents is Calvin Klein It's a popular, but understandable, misconcep- described as "romantic" and "timeless," "unforget- tion that Monroe's favorite scent was Chanel No. 5 Euphoria. table" and "fresh" (or, in the case of (she did, after all, tell reporters that's all she wore Lovely, "hyper-feminine and tastefully to bed). In fact, as Monroe experts will testify, she Going Into A Frenzy hip"). was most enamored with Jean Patou's Joy. Though each year about 100 new Created in 1930, Joy was promoted as the most perfumes are introduced, often tout- expensive perfume in the world, a scent "free from ing "fresh" and "exotic" ingredients, She Wrote The Book all vulgarity," not to mention being "impudent, the very first fragrances were made crazy and extravagant beyond reason." Its devoted Countess Jan Moran holds a degree from simple items found in almost fans included not only Marilyn Monroe but Gloria from the Harvard Business School, but every kitchen. Swanson, Vivien Leigh, Mae West and Mary it's fragrance that captured her heart. In biblical times, women wore a Pickford. "For Me, perfume always represented fragrant oil made of cinnamon from Actress Katie Holmes, on the other hand, goes the luxurious life, a life to be lived to the China as well as jasmine and rose for something a bit less floral. Her scent of choice fullest, not hoarded away for special from Israel. These were mixed with is Jo Malone's Grapefruit, while singers Mariah occasions and future days," she writes in oils, then placed in bags and worn Carey and Whitney Houston opt for Laila, said to her book Fabulous Fragrances. around the neck. smell like the mountains of Norway. Johnny According to Moran, there is a reason The first cologne using alcohol, Depp's longtime sweetheart, Vanessa Paradis, loves that fragrance you adore costs so much: an ingredient in many modern per- Chanel's Coco, also a favorite with Catherine Zeta- it's painstaking work to make. fumes, was produced in 1370. By Jones and Gwyneth Paltrow. It takes 45 minutes for a single, Jo Malone's the 19th century, "society went into new fragrance, "Nothing is more memorable than a smell," skilled worker to pick one pound of flowers. L Pomegranate Noir, was inspired by a vintage red-silk dress a friend of Malone's wore to a party. Scent Of A Woman on page 8 JN GIFT GUIDE I • NOVEMBER 2005 • 7