Royal Oak:Main is Oakland County suburb is decidedly more urban than its more bucolic neighbors to the north. The city's downtown is buzzing with crowds of construction workers - new loft buildings are gobbling up every available piece of property - and hordes of merrymak- ers sampling flavors and fingering wares from a veritable bazaar. DINING From downscale to upper crust, appetites are soothed inj Royal Oak like no place else in the region. On the east side of Main Street, just south of Eleven Mile, are stal- wart Beirut Palace (105 S. Main, 248-399-4600), newcomer Katana Nu-Asian Steakhouse (111 S. Main, 248 591 9900), Little Tree for sushi (107 S. Main, 248-586-0994), Comet Burger (207 S. Main, 248-414-4567) for "sliders," the boisterous Mr. B's Pub (215 S. Main, 248-399-0017), and the big-city ambiance of Andiamo Osteria (129 S. Main, 248- 582-9300). Across the street, Memphis Smoke (100 S. Main, 248-543-4300) packs them in for barbecue, Sweetwater's (106 S. Main, 248-582- 0518) tempts with something, well, sweet, Monterrey Cantina (312 S. Main, 248-545-1940) spices things up with it's upbeat approach to south of the border cuisine, and Tom's Oyster Bar (318 S. Main, 248- 541-1186) satisfies with its daily fresh catch and raw bar. Anchoring the southern end of Main Street, just north of those notorious train tracks, is a trio of restaurants similar in spirit but diver- gent in taste. Bastone (419 S. Main, 248-544-6250) serves up traditional brasserie favorites like mussels and irresistible housemade French fries with indulgent housemade dipping sauces, while its neighbor, Cafe Habana (421 S. Main, 248-544- 6225) brings the flavors of Cuba - the pressed sandwiches are a must - - - Street & Eleven Mile to town. Flanking Bastone on the north is the wine bar Vinotecca (417 S. Main, 248-544-6256), proba- bly the most chic and sophisticated spot to open in these parts in years. And longtime Royal Oak favorite BD's Mongolian Barbecue (248- 398-7755) recently headed south on Main to larger digs in the new Skylofts residential building. Indeed, as Main Street's "restau- rant row" garners most of the atten- tion, other spots are worth explor- ing, such as Lily's Seafood (410 S. Washington, 248-591-5459), Sangria (401 S. Lafayette, 248-543-1964) for tapas, upscale Italian at Lepanto (116 W. Fourth, 248-541-2228) and D'Amato's (222 S. Sherman, 248- 584-7400), finely crafted beers and toothsome fare at Royal Oak Brewery (215 E. Fourth, 248-544- 1141), Pronto (608 S. Washington, 248-544-7900) for over-the-top sand- wiches and baked goods, and what is sure to be metro Detroit's only Nepalese restaurant, Kathmandu Chullo (411 S. Washington, 248- 546-7286). Two other Royal Oak favorites are the always consistent Peking House (215 S. Washington, 248-545-2700), and the ever ambitious Inn Season vegetarian restaurant (500 E. Fourth, 248-547-7916). SHOPPING Few places, if any, rival the interest- ing collection of — and aptly named - stores and services in the down- town district. Superior Fish (309 E. 11 Mile, 248-541-4632) is known region-wide for its, dare it be said, superior quality and selection; cigar aficionados get their fix at Perfecto Cigars and Espresso (302 S. Washington, 248-336-2094); hobby- ists rejoice at The Stamping Grounds (228 W. Fourth, 248-543- 2190); Lost and Found Vintage (208 W. 11 Mile, 248-548-6154) proves one man's "junk" is another's treasure; and the Uppity Puppy (706 S. Washington, 248-336-2380) gives pet owners license to splurge on Fifi and Fido without raising an eyebrow. There's also neat-as-a-pin Rare Old Prints (516 S. Washington, 248- 548-5588), so hushed you'll hear that pin drop; Deco Doug (106 W. Fourth, 248-547-3330) and his trove of time-period artifacts; Footprints (122 S. Main, 248-542-0901) for casual, comfortable footwear; the Lilliputian-sized Burn Rubber (202 W. Fourth, 248-543-3000) for the coolest trainers for men and women; and Write Impressions (310 W. Fourth, 248-541-8921) and Sheets (210 W. Sixth, 248-541-5630) for wonderful collections of writing and craft papers, cards, invitations and accessories. While it's true that apparel shop- ping in Royal Oak has always been a bit thin and weedy, it's gotten a boost recently with the opening of the junior-focused Pitaya (211 S. Main, 248-545-6666), upscale denim purveyor Chaud Jeans (914 S. Washington, 248-399-3980), and of- the-moment retailer American Apparel (405 S. Washington, 248- 547-1904) for sublimely simple and comfortable American-made T-shirts and casual wear. They join the more established Incognito (323 S. Main, 248-548- 2980), known for its avant-garde, iconic clothing and accessories for men and women; the elegantly moody women's clothier Milieu (416 S. Washington, 248-542-9119); Shapes (319 S. Main, 248-547-4990) for frothy frocks; and the fetishist's ROYAL OAK on page 32 MainStreets • October 20, 2005 • 31