Campus Martius

etroit's historic heart has been
gloriously restored in the tradi-
tion of those grand urban gathering
spaces adored in cities across the
globe. Campus Martius (literally the
Fields of Mars) is the new focal
point of the city - the region, really
- from where its spoke-like boule-
vards radiate, and where a renewed
spirit and sense of pride is impossi-
ble to miss.

block of Woodward in the shadow
of the Compuware building, itself
home to the Detroit outpost of the
famous Hard Rock Café (45
Monroe, 313-964-7625).
And probably the best way to
experience the park is to stop in Au
Bon Pain (in Campus Martius, 800
Woodward, 313-226-6600) for a
morning cup of coffee and fresh-
baked sweet roll, or a savory salad or
robust sandwich at lunch, find a seat
outside at one of the café tables or
on the ledge of the fountain, sit
back, and enjoy!

D

DINING

Quintessential big city joints. Places
too cool to miss. Ethnic eateries
standing cheek to jowl. Take the first
steps of your downtown dining tour
from the bustling Campus Martius.
No mention of Detroit "dining" is
complete without talk of the leg-
endary downtown Coney stands. A
few blocks west of the park on
Lafayette, American Coney Island
(114 W. Lafayette, 313-961-7758)
and Lafayette Coney Island (115
W. Lafayette, 313-964-8198) corn-
pete for the honor of Detroit's best
chili-slathered hot dog. Either place
is people-watching at its finest, what
with a clientele of bankers, lawyers,
cops, construction workers, politicos,
tourists and the occasional "citizen
of the streets."
Or, if you prefer a two-fisted ham-
burger with the works, head east
from the park to the Checker Bar
(124 Cadillac Sq., 313-961-9249).
Don't forget the onion rings.
Having watched its competitors
go dark - Pontchatrain Wine Cellars,
London Chop House, Joe Muer's -
the Caucus Club (150 W. Congress,
313-965-4970) remains downtown's
last "big city" restaurant: clubby
atmosphere, classic fare, professional
waiters rather than servers.
Cater-corner from the buttoned-
down air at the Caucus Club, the
subterranean Congress (211 W.
Congress, 313-964-4500) sets a
relaxed, but sophisticated mood

SHOPPING

with its sleek and chic lounge and
stylish dining room.
Despite its name - Greektown
(east of Campus Martius on Monroe
between Brush and 1-375) - and the
popularity of such Hellenic stalwarts
as New Hellas (583 Monroe, 313-
961-5544) and Pegasus Taverna
(558 Monroe, 313-964-6800), the fla-
vor of the neighborhood is becom-
ing a bit more worldly: a new sushi
bar joins the Crescent City favorites
at Fishbone's (400 Monroe, 313-
965-4600), while newcomer Mosaic
(501 Monroe, 313-962-9366) offers
an innovative culinary world tour.
Just beyond the echoes of

Greektown's loudest "Opa!" sit a trio
of fairly new spots that have earned
raves from the get go. There's Small
Plates (1521 Broadway, 313-963-
0497), where a meal is meant to be
shared and different tastes explored,
the ever lively Vincente's (1250
Library, 313-962-8800) for authentic
Cuban cuisine, and finely crafted
ales from downtown's only brew-
pub, Detroit Beer Co. (1529
Broadway, 313-962-1529).
Barely calling attention to itself,
which makes it that much cooler,
the sleek Oslo (1456 Woodward,
313-963-0300) is part sushi bar and
part lounge on a formerly forlorn

Granted no one will mistake down-
town Detroit for Chicago's
Magnificent Mile, or even
Pittsburgh's Golden Triangle, but
serious shoppers know where to
look.
Even in Detroit's downtown retail
heyday, the Broadway-Randolph
area played second fiddle to the
bounty of well-dressed stores on
Woodward and Washington
Boulevard.
Many of those shops, however,
remain, including The Broadway
(1247 Broadway, 313-963-2171) for
designer clothing and accessories for
men, City Slicker Shoes (164
Monroe, 313-963-1963), because
clothes from The Broadway deserve
some equally stylish footing, and a
local retail icon, Henry the Hatter
(1307 Broadway, 313-962-0970).
There's also Serman's (1238
Randolph, 313-964-1335), specializ-
ing in men's and boy's suits, and
Simmons and Clark Jewelers (1535
Broadway, 313-963-2284) — seeing
its classic storefront and sign alone is
worth the trip.
And a few blocks away in
Harmonie Park, the Wolverine Fur
Co. (230 E. Grand River, #7, 313-
961-0620) continues to help take

DETROIT on page 22

MainStreets • October 20, 2005 • 21