ALL'S FARE Sushi, Steak And Style BY DAVID MOSS PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRETT MOUNTAIN ill -1r Mid • T o those of us who, week after week, strolled past the former La Fondue in down- town Royal Oak, the renovation of the space seemed to take forever. The wait, however, was worth it. Two long years in the making, Katana Nu-Asian Japanese Steakhouse has been unveiled — and, owned by Shepard Spencer, who also owns Little Tree Sushi next door, it is wowing the city's diners. To the Japanese, presentation is as important as the food itself, and that concept is apparent upon stepping through the door. From the rich oak paneling, to the seven teppanyaki tables (each seating up to 10 people), to the granite floors, Katana glistens. Even the silverware was impressive — full of heft, rather than the flimsy flat- ware found at many restaurants. For our long-anticipated first visit, 10 • OCTOBER 2005 • JNPLATINUM my dining companion and I chose tep- panyaki — a style of cooking that fea- tures chefs whose expertise involves fast-moving knives, spatulas and vari- ous cuts of fish, seafood, steak and chicken. Think of it as "dinner and a show." We began with a bowl of clear onion broth, followed by an iceberg lettuce salad with a tangy ginger dress- ing. As we ate, the chef had already cleaned the grill before us, put on a small pyrotechnic display and created a deliciously light Japanese fried rice. I chose for the main course Hawaiian Snapper, which was tender and flaky, in a sauce of sesame oil and soy glaze. My dining partner ordered the filet mignon, which the chef grilled to a perfect medium rare, cut into small cubes on the grill and tossed onto her plate. Seafood, chicken and New York strip are other main-course options, as is vegetarian fare. All dinners are accompanied by a side of grilled onion, mushrooms and zucchini. Prices range from $15-$36 for complete din- ners. On the plus side, you are well fed but still have room for a cappuccino at nearby Caribou or a cone at Gelato Roma. On the down side, if you prefer a slow-paced romantic evening, forget it. You sit with several strangers, dinner is flipped onto your plate by the smiling chef and then you leave. If you prefer to linger, consider grazing over the small-plates menu or the robata yaki (open grill) bar, which offers fresh seafood and Pacific fish, sushi and sashimi, salads and an Asian "pancake" of seafood and veggies, bat- ter fried and topped with a garlic may- onnaise — all under $10 and meant to - be shared and combined with other plates. Katana has a full bar, complete with sake and saketinis, Japanese and domestic beers and several moderately priced wines by the bottle or glass. With an elegant yet casual atmos- phere, and even offering a kids' menu, Katana provides another great option to the Royal Oak dining scene. ❑ For previous restaurant reviews, see www.,INOnline.com Katana Nu-Asian Japanese Steakhouse 111 South Main, Royal Oak (248) 591-9900 Dinner-only Monday through Saturday; 1-9 on Sunday; 100 percent non-smoking.