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Evil, Hope from page 53

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54

with changes in street names and
numbers we could not be certain.
What we were really trying to
find was our history.
For years, my mother told us
how her family perished at
Ponar. We drove there on a cold,
misty morning; the weather
reflected our sadness. Suddenly, a
train whistle and barking dogs
made the scene seem surreal. It
was an unpleasant and terribly
unsettling welcome to a place
where Jews were forced to dig
trenches, then were shot and
thrown into the graves they had
dug.
After spending three days in
Vilna, we moved on to Kovno
where I was born. We saw what
became of the Kovno ghetto where
my parents spent four years, living
20-30 people in a home designed
for four or five. My parents and the
inmates of the ghetto struggled
every day to remain alive. The
Nazis methodically exterminated
the population.
In Kovno, we found the Café
Conrad where my mother was
supposed to meet the Nazi guard.
It was eerie to see it and under-
stand the role it played in saving
our family.
The last leg of the trip was to
St. Ottelien, just outside of
Munich, where survivors tried to
heal while planning their uncer-
tain futures.
Sara and I found an old
monastery that had been used as
a displaced persons camp for
about 400 people. Looking at the
medieval buildings in the middle
of beautiful rolling hills, it was
hard to imagine the tortured
Jewish souls that called it home
for months or years.
When we planned our voyage,
Sara and I thought the trip was
about seeing places that connect-
ed us with our past. But we soon
realized the trip was an excuse to
think about and discuss feelings,
emotions and thoughts that often
had no outlet for us in everyday
life.
The cities and buildings were
reminders of man's potential for
inhumanity. But our trip also
revealed hope for mankind. E

Zina Kramer is a Detroit-area pub-
lic relations specialist.

September 29 • 2005

jN