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"How do you know if fish is Established in January 2004 in fresh?" the principal and chef patron Jerusalem, without the help of a of the Jerusalem School of Kosher donor, and operating only on the Culinary Arts asks the audience of tuition it collects, the school now 20 people gathered to watch his meets in a hotel kitchen, although cooking demonstration in a class- Lambiase hopes to be able to move to room in Manhattan's Lincoln Square a more permanent location. Synagogue. The school offers 10-month-long "When you poke it, it bounces back men's programs and five-month-long at you." women's courses. The men's program Lambiase, too, took a bit of time to is extended because it provides train- bounce where he is now. But coming ing in shechitah, or ritual slaughter, from five generations of chefs, and certification as mashgichim, or Lambiase knew his ultimate calling. kashrut supervisors. There are now 25 In 1985, he began training as a chef men and 15 women enrolled in sepa- at the Westminster Hotel School in rate classes. his native England. After three years, In order to receive the highest level Lambiase wanted to be apprenticed to of kosher certification, Lambiase Paul Bocuse, a renowned chef in Lille, caters to the strictures of the Israeli France. rabbinate. "We went a little more "I called him up. He said, 'Sure, but Orthodox to encompass everybody," there's a six-month waiting list, and it he says. This school "is a thing for will cost you 52,000 to spend one the Jewish people as a whole. By hav- week here with me.' " ing different people together, every- Lambiase showed up at Bocuse's one can have a good influence on one restaurant with a friend, offering their another." services as dishwashers. Before long, The New York audience watch with they had convinced the chef to train pleasure as Lambiase chops, sautes, them in his kitchen. whisks and fries, using only a portable Lambiase didn't come to kosher burner and a few simple- ingredients. cooking directly either. He worked for As Lambiase dips tuna steaks in many years at such hotels as the Ritz bread crumbs, an audience member and the Savoy before being invited to asks about substituting matzah meal. cook for Schaverein Kosher Caterers Lambiase advises against it, saying in London. Suddenly, cooking became that the flavor will be less tasty. He "a different world to me. It was a does not advocate making substitu- challenge to come up with new tions in recipes so that they will be recipes. I couldn't just throw butter in kosher for Passover. my sauces, or sprinkle cheese on my Most Passover ingredients, like chicken." matzah meal, are highly processed, After working for a while at and Lambiase loves fresh ingredients. Schaverein, Lambiase sometimes was "A cook uses processed foods," he says invited to spend Shabbat with mem- "But a chef learns to use basic ingredi- bers of London's Orthodox communi- ents, and make his own stocks and ty. Eventually, he decided to become sauces from scratch. On Pesach, you fully observant. just use different basics." Two years ago, Lambiase attended Lambiase even has a solution for Kosherfest, the international kosher dry Pesach cakes — "add a little food and food service trade show, liqueur or syrup," he suggests. L_J held annually since 1989 in the W