ALL'S FARE

The N.3vv Way

An Italian eatery anchors Ferndale dining oasis.

BY DAVID MOSS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE BAAN AND BRETT MOUNTAIN

is Nove adds vet another
dining destination to a
busy strip of Nine Mile,
west of Woodward, in Ferndale.
Anchoring a row of eateries that
includes Assaggi Mediterranean Bistro
and Buffalo Wild Wings, Via Nove is
doing its part to make diners think
twice about that trip to Royal Oak.
Three levels divide the restaurant
with space upstairs for live jazz. The
main-floor dining room is black with
flickering candles set atop wood
tables. A large picture window offers a
view of the dining patio as well as
people and cars passing by. Just above
the main dining room is a well-
stocked bar and balcony tables.
The wait staff, dressed in white
oxford shirts and black pants, roam
the room serving food, pouring wine
and making small talk. Service was
attentive and slow-paced, which is

nice when you're not in a rush.
Wines are reasonably priced by the
bottle or glass. I chose a mid-priced
Barolo that offered spice and berry
notes, and was quite drinkable upon
opening. It turned out to be a fine
complement to the meal.
For an appetizer, my companion
and I passed over the spinach, ricotta
and mozzarella stuffed eggplant slices,
and thought about the grilled cala-
mari, shrimp and scallops over baby
greens. Instead, we opted for a plate
of homemade pasta with roma toma-
toes and basil. Split between us, it was
a perfect appetizer for two. The subtly
warm, herbed focaccia arrived at our
table first and was served with a
saucer of tomato sauce surrounded by
olive oil.
The house salad, an eclectic mix of
greens tossed in a balsamic reduction
dressing, accompanies all entrees.

Three soups are available, including a
unique mixture of cod, chick peas and
rosemary, as well as a vegetarian
minestrone and chicken broth with
pastina. Any would have been nice on
a cold evening, but the temperature
outside left us choosing to save room
for a cool dessert.
Via Nove's entree choices include
eight homemade pastas, including fet-
tuccine with fresh Italian sausage, and
linguine with baby clams and mussels.
We tried one of three veal dishes —
the Saltimbocca, tender veal scallops
with prosciutto. This traditional dish
had a flavorful twist, sauteed with a
sauce of dried cherries, walnuts and just
a dab of cream. For our other entree, we
tried the grilled prawns with tomato and
lobster sauce circling a mound of risotto.
The prawns tasted as though they were
just plucked out of the ocean. The dish
was delicious and light.

Other entree options include sea
scallops wrapped in salmon, breaded
sole over stewed Swiss chard, grilled
salmon with fried risotto cakes and
seared chicken breast with spinach
stuffed portobello mushroom.
For dessert, we shared the warm,
dark chocolate cake with pistachio ice
cream and candied walnuts. This dish
was as delicious as it looked. Other
desserts include a roasted chestnut
charlotte with chestnut mousse and
hazelnut-chocolate gelato, and a ricotta
creme brulee with lemon.
Via Nove is open Tuesday through
Sunday for dinner only. Reservations
are recommended. Bring a full wallet as
the evening can get pricey — and pre-
pare for Italian that shines.

❑

For additional restaurant
reviews, see JNOnline.com

Via Nove: 344 W. Nine Mile,
Ferndale
(248) 336-9936

Scaloppine di Vitello al Limone — sauteed veal with

wild mushrooms, artichokes and lemon herb sauce

Tortino Caldo di Cioccolato

con Geloto al Arancia —

dark chocolate macadamia

tortino with orange gelato,

milk chocolate nutella

mousse and a duet of

orange sauces

8 •

Al GusT

2005

• JNPLATINUM