To 6ifet

Food

Wood Adds Flavor

... when used as a platform for cooking on
an outdoor grill or indoors in the oven.

ANNABEL COHEN
Special to the Jewish News

I

.
t imparts a subtly smoky — and,
yes, woodsy — flavor that's
intriguing, unusual and fun to
experiment with.
Long before there were pots and pans
rattling around North America, Indians
in the Pacific Northwest used wood for
cooking food over open flames. From
that evolved a simple method of captur-
ing the essence of wood as a seasoning
that persists today.
There's a certain richness that comes
with plank cooking. There's a subtle fla-
vor that comes with mingling the fla-
vors of wood and meat or fish — sort
of like when you smoke foods with
soaked wood chips.
Cedar's ability to be soaked in water
or a seasoned liquid, its durability and
flavor make it a favorite for plank
grilling. Western red cedar is probably
the most commonly used wood; but
any length of untreated hardwood no
more than an inch thick is appropriate,
including oak, maple, alder and woods
such as apple, cherry and hickory. Softer
woods like pine are too resinous for
plank-cooking. As heat releases the
resins, they drip into the fire and can
impart a rancid flavor.
As long as the wood is untreated —
without finishes like varnish or toxic
weatherproofing materials that can alter
a food's safety or flavor — any 10- or
12-inch length of hardwood is appro-
priate. Woods that have soaked up aro-
matic liquids, such as those from oak
wine barrels, also can add dimension to
this type of cooking.
Because wood dries out as it is heated
and reheated, planks have a tendency to
crack, splinter and break, making them
unfit for cooking after just a few uses.
But planks manufactured specifically for
grilling can last longer, especially if they
are washed with hot, soapy water and
rubbed with vegetable oil after use.
These manufactured boards can run
from about $30 to $50 or more,
depending on what is included. Many
come with handles, wells for catching
drips, strengthening rods and nails for
tying on the food and cookbooks.
Plainer planks are even cheaper — some
are considered disposable and intended

8/ 4
2005

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for one-time use.
Planks generally should be soaked
before using on a grill or they might
catch fire. Follow the manufacturer's
directions if you buy a special plank.
It's also wise to keep a spray bottle full
of water nearby to douse flames. Some
experts suggest having a bucket of water
in which to plunge an overly charred
plank after you remove the food.
Since wood planks are also mostly
flat, remember that juices can drip into
the fire and cause flare-ups. Many cooks
will place a baking sheet under the
plank to catch juices.
Most commercial planks have a
depression or well in the center for cap-
turing drips. Some also are reinforced
with metal rods that extend their lives by
helping to keep the wood from warping
or splitting. These rods also help to hold
food on the plank so the board can be
turned over during cooking. Twine can
be crisscrossed over the food to hold it
in place and tied to the rods.

Safety Issues

Plank cooking is not without its detrac-
tors, however. Although the delicious
flavor is seldom disputed, the safety of
cooking on wood has been questioned.
Wood has a limited shelf life.
Invariably the wood splits and it's diffi-
cult to clean and sterilize. Like a wood
cutting board; planks can become con-
taminated.
Though unclean or split wood is a
potential hazard, home cooks can heat-
sterilize planks by preheating them
before use. Preheating the wood to 350
degrees — but no higher — for 10 to
15 minutes solves the dilemma.
Because fish steaks and fillets cook
more quickly than meats or poultry, fish
has become the food of choice for
planking.
But any food that can be cooked in an
oven can be planked — meat, fish, fowl,
vegetables and fruits. What differs is
cooking time. Wood does not conduct
heat as well as glass or metal, so cooking
times tend to be longer.
Foods cooked on a plank are also
often served on the plank. For a
whole fish or large cuts of meat, the
plank can be brought to the table and
served there. For individual servings,
simply place the plank directly in

.

front of the delighted diner.
Any way you plank it, you'll find
this a fun and interesting way to add
to your summer of grilling.

PLANKED HERB AND ALMOND
STUFFED CHICKEN BREASTS
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup fresh parsley
1/4 cup fresh mint
1/4 cup fresh tarragon or sage
4 garlic cloves
4 Tbsp. (1/4 cup) olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
1 cup slivered almonds
2-3 pounds skin on, boneless chicken
breast halves (about 8 large halves)
Kosher salt and freshly ground
pepper to taste
Ground paprika
Preheat grill to medium-high heat
(about 350°F). Place the plank on the
grill and heat for 15 minutes while you
prepare the chicken.
Combine the basil, parsley, mint, tar-
ragon, garlic, oil, and lemon juice in the
bowl of a food processor and pulse until
finely chopped but not a paste. Stir in
the almond slivers and pulse lightly.
Arrange the skin on the chicken so
that it covers the whole breast half.
Gently loosen one side of the skin -
this will be the "pocket" for the filling.
With a small spoon or spreader, place
2-3 Tbsp. of the chopped herb mix-
ture under the skin of each breast half
and spread it around evenly under the
skin. If necessary, rearrange the skin
on the breast to cover it well.
Season the skin and meat sides of the
chicken with the kosher salt and pep-
per. Place the chicken breasts on the
plank skin side down. This will keep
the filling from oozing out from under
the skin of the chicken during cooking.
Roast the chicken for 15 minutes,
turn over, sprinkle with paprika and
roast for 20 minutes more or until the
skin is golden and the chicken is just
cooked through. Place the cooked
breasts on a serving platter drizzled
with any juices left on the plank.
Makes 6-8 servings.

PLANK ROASTED WILD
MUSHROOMS WITH PORT
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup Port wine (white or red)
1/2 tsp. ground cayenne pepper
2 Tbsp. fresh rosemary (or 1 Tbsp.
dried leaves)
3 cups wild mushrooms, cut into 1-
inch pieces
3 cups cultivated white mushrooms,
quartered
2 cups 1-inch chunks mild onion
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper to taste
Combine the oil, vinegar, wine,
cayenne pepper and rosemary in a large
bowl and whisk to combine. Toss the
mushrooms and onions with the liquid
and allow to marinate for 1 hour or
more, up to overnight, tossing once or
twice to soak the mushrooms.
Preheat grill to medium-high heat
(about 350°E) Place the plank on the
grill and heat for 15 minutes. Place the
mushrooms on the plank and grill for 1
hour, turning occasionally. Season with
salt and pepper and serve hot or at
room temperature. Makes 8 servings.

PLANKED MAPLE AND VODKA
GLAZED SALMON
2 - 3 pound boned salmon fillet, cut
into 8 pieces
Olive oil
Glaze:
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
1/4 cup vodka
1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup minced red onion
2 Tbsp. minced garlic, or to taste
1/2 tsp. ground cayenne pepper
Kosher salt and pepper to taste
Preheat grill to medium-high heat
(about 350°F.) Place the plank on the
grill and heat for 15 minutes.
Combine all the glaze ingredients in
a small saucepan over medium-high
heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and
simmer for 20 minutes or until the
glaze is reduced and thickened and
reduced to about 3/4 of a cup.
Brush the plank with olive oil and
arrange the fish pieces on it. Place the
plank on the grill and brush the
salmon liberally with the glaze. Roast
the salmon for 15 minutes or until
just cooked through, brushing with
glaze every few minutes during the
cooking. Serve hot or at room temper-
ature. Makes 8 servings. ❑

