ALL'S FARE

And Kosher Too!

A new restaurant with a delicious twist.

BY

ANNABEL COHEN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

ANGIE BAAN

E

li Weingarden, the energetic 24-
year-old owner, turned his first
name upside-down to come up
with the number for his restaurant.

Early in April, Grille 173, at the north-
ernmost part of Royal Oak, quietly opened
its doors. It closed for the week of
Passover and for the past few months the
staff has been getting a feel for the neigh-
borhood and patrons. Grille 173 is situated

on a bed of fresh baby spinach and driz-
zled with Asian-inspired sauce. We also
ordered California roll and roasted porto-
bello mushroom, with chopped mushroom
ragout, sauteed spinach and bright red
pepper coulis. Both were very good.
We moved on to two soups — mush-
room and cabbage. The mushroom was
luxurious and brimming with, well, mush-
rooms. Surprisingly, the cabbage soup was
golden and mild, without that deli sweet-
and-sour taste you might expect.
For dinner, we had the chicken marsala,
tender and flavorful with lightly glazed
vegetables and herbed mashed potatoes.
We also tried the rosemary merlot lamb

Grille 173 is shomer Shabbat, so don't
try going there on Friday night, or
Saturday before 10 p.m. If this were a
town with many kosher restaurants, it
would seem okay that Friday evenings, all-
day Saturday and at prime-time on
Saturday nights the parking lot is empty
(they re-open again from 10 p.m. until 2
a.m. — perfect for the late night or apres-
theatre crowd).
In this neighborhood, these may be
tough operating hours. And because
Weingarden is still getting a feel for what
will work at Grille 173, the hours may
change with the seasons (open later on
Friday in the summer and earlier on
Saturday in the fall and winter months).

Roasted Portobello

in the former Juke Box on Woodward
Avenue, just south of 14 Mile Road.
I walked into the Grille with lingering
memories of all the past restaurants in that
locale and was pleasantly surprised. The
decor was upscale — like any other fine
restaurant you'd expect in the area. The
menu is extensive, offering many appetiz-
ers, soups, salads, entrees and daily spe-
cials.
Weingarden explained that the fare is
kosher, not Jewish, and fleishig (meat)
like at many upscale kosher restaurants
he would frequent on vacations in other
cities. Grille 173 even has a sushi bar,
"Detroit's first kosher sushi bar," said
Weingarden proudly.
There are several appetizers — we tried
the cilantro spring rolls, deliciously served

0 • JULY 2005 • JNPLATINUM

chops, which were also tender and pre-
pared exactly as requested. The lemon-
glazed salmon was zesty, with an interest-
ing corn relish garnish. The buffalo burger
was also cooked perfectly and beautifully
presented with caramelized onions and a
mushroom sauce.
For dessert, we had the apple beignets,
batter-dipped apple rings, deep fried and
served with apple compote and toasted
almond slices. It was served piping hot and
the compote was addictive.
All in all, the fare was quite good and
surprisingly light, perhaps because it's
missing all the butter and cream that make
some food heavy. You can go online and
check out the menu at www.grille173:com.

He's also planning on opening the upstairs
deck for alfresco dining and private par-
ties.
Weingarden isn't too concerned about
the failures of the previous restaurants.
"Business is business," said this enthusias-
tic owner of the Subsation restaurants at
both Jewish Community Centers of
Metropolitan Detroit. "I was born to do
business, and as much as I have a passion
for restaurants, I make things work."

❑

Grille 173
32832 Woodward • Royal Oak
(248) 549-5420

