Jewish Identity Evil Remembered Shaarey Zedek family's trip honors those who perished in Poland. Upon entering Majdanek, we met the curator, Gregory, who gave us a personal tour of the camp because we were the only visitors. Then we went into the men's shower, with a dozen or so showerheads. Knowing 60 years ago my mother was next door in the women's shower, won- dering if water or gas would come out, was chilling beyond the cold tempera- ture of the moment. We then proceeded into the gas chambers, a room that still has the blue stains from the Zyklon B. We entered one of Majdanek's bar- racks, where tens of thousands of shoes from the murdered inmates remain. Lori and Jessica walked arm in arm, passing all the shoes, knowing they belonged to people just like us. At that moment, all of us felt an infinite sadness, a sense of the overwhelming inhumanity of this place. We proceeded to the crematoria, where the ovens and tools remain intact, and then walked on a snow-covered field where, on one November day in 1943, the Nazis had a "Jew Harvest." On that day, they shot 18,000 prisoners. This was a place not to be forgotten. Birthday Treasure 14144,4„ During a winter storm, Steven Weisberg feels the emotional chill at the Majdanek concentration camp. STEVEN WEISBERG Special to the Jewish News is y- mother Henrietta Weisberg was born in Warsaw. Her memories about Poland and the Polish people are nightmares that continue to this day. I grew up curious about Poland, but it has always been difficult emotional ground to cover with her, and Poland was described as ground not worth returning to. But this past February, my wife Lori and I, and our children Jessica, 16, Madeline, 14, and Matthew, 13, decided to visit Eastern Europe to celebrate my 50th birthday and to look back at my mother's exodus from Europe. We saw it as a family trip to honor the lives of those now gone or forever changed by those dark days of the Holocaust. We began in Vienna, where we visit- ed the restored synagogue with its blue ceiling that appears to have stars shining down from heaven. We then went on to Prague, to the Old Cemetery and several synagogues, including the Pinkas Synagogue, whose walls have the names of 80,000 Czech Jews killed during World War II. I was particularly moved by my kids' reaction to the exhibit of children's drawings from nearby Theresienstadt. It was clear this trip was giving all of us reason to reflect on how lucky we are to live in freedom. Next, we made a nine-hour train trip through the Czech Republic and into southern Poland. Many of us have grown up with images of the Holocaust — of the train tracks leading to Auschwitz. Getting on that train at night, passing through Krakow in a snowstorm, listening to others speaking Polish and thinking of cattle cars trans- porting Jews to Auschwitz was very unsettling for Lori and me. Lori's father, Joseph Schwartz of blessed memory, lost his parents and 10 siblings in southern Poland during the Holocaust. Although the sleeper car was acceptable accommodations, neither one of us slept well that night. A Somber Visit After arriving in Warsaw, we headed in a minivan to Majdanek concentration camp in Lublin. I thought 60 years ago my mother traveled this same way, but in a cattle car with her mother and sister to a hell on earth! What a surreal feeling to be at Majdanek, where my mother was im- prisoned when she was 14, my daughter Madeline's age. Ori Feb. 19, my 50th birthday, we went to Warsaw's only shul, the Nozyk Synagogue. Sixty-six years ago the city had 38 synagogues and 350,000 Jews. In synagogue that Shabbat morning, Lori counted 40 Jewish souls. The syna- gogue is located on the same street as my mother's home from before the war. Although her home was destroyed by the Nazis, along .with 80 percent of Warsaw, the synagogue survived because it was outside the ghetto and was used by the Nazis as a barn. As a birthday present, I was given an aliyah and read from the Torah, which was arranged by Rabbi Michael Schudrich, the chief rabbi of Poland. My son Matthew opened the ark, removed the Torah and handed it to the rabbi. I was called to the Torah by my Hebrew name, Shmuel ben Avram. My first name comes from my mother's mother, Sara, who perished at Majdanek. Avram is my father's Hebrew name. EVIL REMEMBERED on page 90 6/ 2 2005 89