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TODD PITOCK Special to the Jewish News A t a seder last year, the host put out a few bottles of Israeli wine. "Oh, kosher wine," one of the host's relatives observed with flared nostrils and a raised brow. "Yum." The topic of Israeli wines — not all Featuring Children's Footwear and Other Treasures Naturino Applegate Shopping Center 29963 Northwestern Hwy. 248 948 7888 www.seashe114-ootwearcom 968010 Oilily Moschino ■■ ••••.{ r1 .A •Authentic Israeli Cuisine •From Haute to Haimish •Catering Carryout •Kids' Menu We will be dosed the week of Passover and re-open on Monday, May 2nd r MEN MN ENE NNE 111=11 NIB I I I I 11 111111 NMI NM II ()% Imp f Any Sandwich Combo I I Choice-of sandwich, 1201 pop, choice of soup or salad Regular price 56'5 Exp ires5/31 05 One coupon per customer. Not good with any other offer. 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For price and size information, 4/28 2005 60 call Pam at 248.354.6060 ext. 219 or use the online order form at: www.detroltjewishnews.com/reprints 880610 s pre-eminent kosher wines are Israeli, not all Israeli wines are kosher — can seem like a meeting place that's made specially for snobs and rubes to share. To paraphrase a certain White House cabinet mem- ber, a lot of people don't know what they don't know or don't know what they think they know. "Kosher" triggers associations with "Manischewitz," the syrupy, sacramen! tal stuff found in the fruit and jug wines section of the supermarket. In fact, Israel has followed the global trend of crafting quality wine and is now regarded by wine experts as an up- and-corner. The industry is technologi- cally modern, with state-of-the-art facil- ities and know-how. It's also growing aggressively, with more than 120 winer- ies, an implausibly high number given Israel's small population. To put that in perspective, if Israel were a U.S. state, it would rank fifth in production. The vibrancy of Israel's vineyard growth is surprising, especially consid- ering that Israelis are light drinkers. Israelis now consume up to 7 liters per person compared with 56 liters for a Frenchman or 49 for an Italian. Upward Curve "Israeli wines are on a steep upward curve," says wine-writer Rod Smith. "The country has the conditions, espe- cially in the Golan Heights with its cool high-altitude sites, varied expo- sures and volcanic soils. "Israeli growers and winemakers are among the most progressive and cos- mopolitan in the world. They have the financial backing, too, so all the parts are in place." The latest part is Rogov's Guide to Israeli Wines 2005 (The Toby Press; $14.95), the first comprehensive English-language book on the subject. "When I met Robert Parker (arguably the world's most influential wine critic), he told me he's 'the Daniel Rogov of the United States,"' the book's author joked in a Tel Aviv café last year. Rogov has long played the role of food and wine ambassador for Israeli tourism, and readers have consulted him for wine and restaurant choices for more than 35 years. His columns appear in the newspapers Ha'Aretz and the International Herald Tribune and on his personal Web site (www.stratsplace.com/rogov). He has, and is, a big personality, who knows the skinny on seemingly every chef, restaurateur, supplier and wine expert in Israel. The guide aims to put Israel on the oenological map a la John Platter's South African Wine Guide or annual Pocket Wine Guides by Britain's Hugh Johnson and Australia's Oz Clark. Rogov's endeavor is handsomely published, and its portable format underscores its usefulness for wine trav- elers. The book includes a fine introduc- tion, with a history and an overview of the subject. It goes on to review vine- yards and their varietals using the con- vention of stars and the 100-point rat- ings system, with evaluations accord- ing to the flavor wheel. Although wine talk can be generally