urul tm oN wig Act m om Food Homey and spiritual, Shabbat bread links the generations each week. LYNNE MERIDETH SCHREIBER Special to the Jewish News A my Appelman knows that cre- ating memorable associations between food and religion is one way to instill a fondness for Jewish living in young children. That's why her Temple Israel early childhood class, "From Challah to Hamantashen," begins each session with challah baking. "Challah is such an effective experi- ence," says Appelman, who is Temple Israel's family educator. "That's what's so great about the kids having the chance to make it. I say to the families 3/24 2005 52 when they come, 'It's not about the product; it's about the process.' "For your children to have an expe- rience kneading the dough, putting it in the oven, basting it with the egg — it's gorgeous when it comes out. They feel so good about what they've made. They're going to remember that and hopefully pass that on." Call it challah, berches (German) or ragiq (Iraqi), the special breads the Torah commands Jews to make and consume in celebration of Shabbat are one of the truly univer- sal elements tying us all together. "Bread is so universal, so important," says Maggie Glezer, a certified baker and the Atlanta-based author of A Blessing of Bread: Recipes and Rituals, Memories and Mitzvahs. "It's cheap, it's filling, it's nour- ishing. It's harkening back to the home being the center of everything. Anybody who's making challah is taking really good care of their family." Most Jews have fond associations with Sabbath bread. Although famed chef Mark Bittmam says chal- lah is not his favorite bread, nor his favorite Jewish food, he remembers his mother sending him to buy challah from the bakery and eating it on the way home. COVER STORY Loren Stewart