Arts & Life Food Al Dente Wonderful, comforting pasta makes a comeback after the anti-carb fad. ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News T he anti-carb craze is slowing down. People starved for healthy carbs are introducing whole grains and even pasta — in moderation — back to the table. Some folks never gave up pasta. It's too good, too comforting and a guilty pleasure. Dry pasta is inexpensive and an excel- lent product. Indeed, many cooks worth their reggiano have no qualms about serving good quality dry pasta instead of its more expensive fresh counterpart. It's easy to prepare pasta. And what's more satisfying than freshly boiled pasta drizzled with butter or olive oil and a lit- tle fresh-grated parmesan cheese. The real trick is in the cooking and quick serving of pasta. Unless you're preparing pasta salad, hot, cooked spaghetti, farfalle and linguine, among others, should never be made ahead of mealtime and should never be rinsed — within reason and recipe. Pasta should be truly al dente. And you can't rely solely on a clock to tell you when that is. Always — always — taste pasta before you drain it. When you bite down, pasta should be slightly chewy. To salt or not? It's personal preference. Salty water adds a negligible amount of flavor to pasta, but go ahead if you must — about a tablespoonful to a big pot of water. The following recipes are simple. Of course, you can add ingredients to your heart's content. FETTUCCINE WITH SPINACH, ROASTED GARLIC AND FETA Substitute kale or chard for the spinach, walnuts or almonds for the pinenuts and parmesan or another cheese for the feta. 1 cup peeled garlic cloves 1/4 cup olive oil 1 pound dry fettuccine 1 pound fresh baby spinach leaves 2 cups fresh chopped plum or roma tomatoes 1 cup lightly toasted pinenuts 2 cups crumbled feta cheese 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar kosher salt and pepper to taste Roast the garlic: Preheat oven to 400F. Lay a 12-inch sheet of heavy-duty foil (or two layers of regular foil) on a flat surface. Place the garlic in the and pour the olive oil over. Use your hands to toss the garlic with the oil. Wrap the garlic in the foil and place the packet on a baking sheet. Roast in the center of the oven for 40 minutes. Remove and allow to cool completely before opening. Chop the garlic and set aside. Just before serving: Be sure to have all your ingredients ready and at hand. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until just al dente. Drain the pasta well (do not rinse), and place in a large bowl. Add about half the garlic to the pasta and add all the spinach. Toss immediate- ly. Add the tomatoes, half the pinenuts and the half the feta cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve the pasta with extra feta cheese and pinenuts sprinkled over the top. Serve the remaining garlic on the side. Makes 4-6 servings. PENNE WITH MASCARPONE, EGGS, OLIVES AND BASIL 1 pound dry penile pasta 1 cup mascarpone cheese 2 Tbsp. melted butter 1 Tbsp. olive oil 1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg, optional salt and pepper to taste 6 hard-boiled eggs, chopped 1 cup chopped, pitted dried-cured olives 1/2 cup fresh chopped basil fresh grated parmesan cheese, garnish Have all the ingredients ready. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until just al dente. Drain the pasta well- (do not rinse), and place in a large bowl. Add the mascarpone cheese, butter and olive oil; toss well. Add nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Toss in the eggs and basil. Serve the pasta with parmesan cheese on the side. Makes 4-6 servings. SPINACH PASTA WITH CHICKEN AND CARAMELIZED ONION 2 Tbsp. olive oil 2 cups chopped onions 2 Tbsp. chopped garlic 1 tsp. brown sugar 1 can (28 oz.) diced tomatoes with juices 1 bay leaf 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes (or more for spicier sauce) 1/2 cup red wine, any kind 4 baked or grilled chicken breasts, cut into 1/2-inch chunks salt and pepper to taste 1 pound dried spinach pasta, any shape fresh basil leaves, garnish Make the caramelized onions: Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and garlic; cook, stirring frequently, for about 8 minutes, until the onions are softened and beginning to brown. Add the sugar; cook, stirring frequently, for another 8 minutes, until the onions are brown and caramelized. Make the sauce: Heat the tomatoes in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add bay leaf and pepper flakes; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, add the wine and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasional- ly. Add the caramelized onions, chicken, salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until just al dente. Drain the pasta well (do not rinse), and place in a large bowl. Add the sauce with the chicken and toss well. Serve, garnished with the basil leaves. Makes 4-6 servings. CAPELLINI WITH SALMON AND VODKA TOMATO CREAM SAUCE Sauce: 2 Tbsp. butter 1 cup chopped onions 1 cup vodka 1 cup tomato puree 3/4 cup heavy cream (not whipped) 1 tsp. hot red pepper sauce salt and pepper to taste 1 pound dry capellini 4 salmon fillet portions (about 5 ounces each) 1 Tbsp. olive oil kosher or sea salt and pepper to taste fresh chopped parsley, garnish freshly grated parmesan cheese, garnish Preheat oven to 450F. Make the sauce: Heat butter in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onions; cook, stirring fre- quently, until very soft. Add the vodka and tomato puree; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium; stir in cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm. Bring a large of water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until just al dente. Drain the pasta well (do not rinse) and leave in the colander. Spray a baking:, sheet with nonstick spray. Arrange the salmon on the sheet. Brush the tops with olive oil (or spray with olive oil cooking spray). Season the salmon with salt and pepper. Just after adding the pasta to the boiling water, place the salmon in the preheated oven. After draining the pasta, turn the oven off, but leave the salmon inside. Arrange the drained pasta on 4 individual plates or pasta bowls. Divide the sauce among the portions. Top the pasta with sauce and the hot salmon (it will have finished cooking by then — resist the urge to overcook the salmon). Serve garnished with fresh chopped parsley and a sprin- kle of grated cheese, if desired. MACARONI AND CHEESE 4 Tbsp. butter 4 Tbsp. flour 4 cups milk 2 tsp. ground paprika 1 pound, about 4 cups, shredded sharp cheddar cheese salt and pepper to taste 1 pound dry pasta shape Make the sauce: Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly, for 3 minutes. Drizzle in the milk, whisking constantly and cook until the mixture begins to boil and becomes thick. Whisk in the paprika. Slowly add the shredded cheese, stirring with a wooden or plastic spoon until a thick cheese sauce is achieved. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until just al dente. Drain the pasta well (do not rinse), and place in a large bowl. Stir in the sauce and serve hot or spoon into a buttered baking dish and bake for 30 minutes at 350E, until the sauce is bubbly and the top of the pasta is browned. Makes 4-6 servings. ❑ For more recipes, go to JNOnline.com. 3/ 3 2005 63