ALL'S FARE

BY ANNABEL COHEN

VV

hen Brad Johnson trad-
ed his computer pro-
grammer badge for a
chef's cap, he really
hadn't had much experience cooking for
the masses. He had worked in restaurants
all of his life, but never behind the stove.
So how did Johnson and partner Randy
Shallow make Ferndale's Starving Artist
Restaurant a going concern, now for more
than a year-and-a-half, when statistics
reveal that new restaurants often deflate
faster than a chocolate souffle? Especially
when this eatery is only open Tuesday
through Saturday?
Perhaps it's because their fresh, mini-
mally processed, "food and a palette"
approach to food is just so honest. Johnson,
who, along with Shallow and some "chef'
friends, serves personal recipe favorites,
including some heirloom recipes passed
down through the family. In fact, every-
thing about Starving Artist is personal.

■

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE BAAN

The partners found the Nine Mile Road
space — a former Mexican restaurant in
what's becoming more and more "fashion-
able Ferndale" — remodeled it and did
pretty much everything themselves.
Then they filled the joint with works for
sale by local artists — starving? — rotating
the collection every four to six weeks.
Certainly, the two times I ate there, the
two different exhibits made it seem I was
dining in different restaurants.
Johnson describes the fare as "eclectic
international," with descriptors that
include the words Thai, chimichurri and
primavera. It's also ambitious for a place
that seats 40 to have 16 everyday entrees,
not including daily specials.
But don't expect the exact same menu
all year long. The menu is seasonal,
reflecting the best available ingredients of
each season. The most popular items on
the menu are the fellini lobster ravioli with
tomato-tarragon cream sauce, grilled

S•T•A.R•V.I.N.G

Starving Artist Restaurant
212 W. Nine Mile Road, Ferndale
(248) 545-5650

Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Sunday and Monday — Closed
Available for private parties; entree prices, $8.95 to -
$23.95; full bar

salmon with honey, lime and Chipolte pepper glaze, chicken
Matisse sauteed in white wine with shiitake mushrooms, red
pepper and onions, and the macaroni and cheese, a deceptive-
ly simple name for a dish that's laced with roasted garlic, sun-
dried tomatoes and Parmesan crumb topping.
For appetizers, I tried broiled artichoke bottoms stuffed
with Boursin cheese, which was tart and savory. The roasted
red pepper and walnut pate combines two of my favorite fla-
vors and is served with garlic crostini. I loved Rousseau's
Crimini mushroom ravioli with tomato basil sauce as well as
the vegetable Napoleon, a layered dish of vegetables includ-
ing portabella mushrooms, eggplant, zucchini and polenta.
The chargrilled ahi yellowfin tuna salad satisfied my taste for
Asian flavors, served over mixed greens with hearts of palm,
red and green bell peppers and orange sesame dressing.
The menu choices are filling, yet light, so there should be
at least a bit of room left for the chocolate volcano cake —
think fudge and berries — or the five-fruit pie with whipped
cream.
At lunch, you'll find some of the dinner entrees in addition
to an expanded selection of salads, sandwiches and quiche of
the day.
Starving Artist is already a favorite among the interesting
and interested locals. It just makes sense. When you get sick
of dark steak houses and cookie-cutter chains, it's nice to eat
where the food is light, fresh and not over-processed. ❑

JNPLATINUM • NOVENIBER 2004

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