ALL
S OLID
B RASSERIE
B Y DAVID MOSS
P HOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE BAAN
N
C lose your eyes. Forget about the traffic creeping along
Orchard Lake Road. Listen to the chatter of happy din-
ers. Smell the aroma of grilled meats and seafood waft-
ing through the smoke-free dining room.
Open your eyes. Look around. Take in the bar area,
with candles galore, an impressive array of libations and the slick-looking
gray metal bar top itself.
Move on to the dining room with its mahogany floors and woodwork,
soft gold tones and wine "cellar."
Are you in Paris? Maybe New York? No, you're at Zinc, a new brasserie
and wine bar along West Bloomfield's main strip, just south of Maple
Road.
Owners Matt and Mark Brown have hit a high note with this eye-pleas-
ing gem. Known previously for their prowess with burgers and pub food at
Royal Oak's Redcoat Tavern, the brothers have taken the wine-bar theme
and run with it, to the delight of the diners who pack this loud and lively
place each night.
Wine is important here, and the staff helps to make it approachable and
fun. At Zinc, you can choose from 27 wines by the glass, 21 impressive
Zinc
Orchard Lake Road
West Bloomfield
(248) 865-0500
half-bottles and another 150 nice to high-end full bottles. With our
dinner, we chose a half-bottle of 2001 E. Guigal Chateauneuf-du-
Pape, a delicious, complex wine with distinctive fruit and mineral
flavors. Our half-bottle, like all the wine here, was reasonably
priced by restaurant standards.
In terms of food, this French-inspired menu treats us to a com-
forting selection that includes scallopini of veal with gnocchi, pan
roasted whitefish, grilled lamb chops, swordfish Marseilles, and
even roast duck a la Chinoise.
In addition, there are small plates, soups, salads and appetizers,
including a seafood raw bar, with enough variety for our vegetarian
friends.
Our dinner began with a bowl of gazpacho, which was fresh,
zesty and chock full of veggies. The secret ingredient, Spanish
pimenton (smoked paprika), gave it a slightly spicy, smoky flavor.
Next, it was on to a delicious, savory, braised lamb shank Osso
Bucco, served with saffron risotto and gremolata. The lamb was
served with a steak knife, which wasn't needed. The perfectly
cooked meat pulled away easily from the bone. Our other entree,
bouillabaisse, was a scrumptious helping of scallops, lobster, sword-
fish, salmon, clams and mussels in a rich broth. Both were excel-
lent.
For dessert we split a creme brulee, which was plenty for two.
Unfortunately, beneath a nice hard crust was a disappointingly
bland custard.
Our waiter, in white shirt, tie and jeans (which seemed overly
casual for a place with such high-caliber food and wine), was atten-
tive and helpful. We were able to dine slowly and make a night of
it, while the table next to us turned twice.
Whether your passion is fine wine, comforting food, or the casu-
al bar scene, you will find something to enjoy at Zinc. ❑
David Moss is a wine hobbyist and a former apprentice chef and waiter.
In his day job, he is marketing director forJewish Family Service.
PLATINUM • OCTOBER 2004 •
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