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BY SHELLI LIEBMAN DORFMAN/JN STAFF WRITER

Above left and right: The Iroquois is a small 100-year-old hotel located near the docks. The harbor at

Mackinac is home in the summer to several sailboat races.

clubs, cross country skiing."
Buzz told us that 600 people live
year-round on Mackinac Island and
80 of them attend the public
school, grades K-12. In the winter,
the buggies are replaced by sleighs.
No motorized vehicles are ever
allowed on the island, which was
listed this year by the National
Trust for Historic Preservation as
one of its "Dozen Distinctive
Destinations." "Even if you are
rebuilding your house," Buzz said,
"construction materials are hauled
in buckboards by horses."
Buzz is active in the Old Stone
Church, the venue for 40 weddings
during the 20-week season.
Couples pay $1,300 to be married
in the tiny chapel with its richly
painted (not stained) glass win-
dows. The money goes to a scholar-
ship fund for the island's high
school students to attend college on
the mainland.
Later, we walked on a trail over-
looking the sea in front of enor-
mous 19th-century "cottages," sev-
eral with stables attached. Hikers
will find 87 miles of trails, includ-
ing an 8-mile path encircling the
entire island. Saddle horses and
bicycles augment the horse-drawn
carriages for island tours, general
transportation and fun.

Saturda

Blustery
cold winds and brilliant sunshine
alternated with dark gray skies and
rain. On our walk to Fort Mackinac,
we carried both umbrellas and sun-
glasses.
Fort Mackinac, a collection of

white wooden buildings, sits on the
edge of the first state park in
Michigan, covering 80 percent of
the island. A young man in Civil
War uniform shouted into the wind
the history of the fort, built by the
British in 1779. It was attacked sev-
eral times by the Americans but we
finally won it following the War of
1812, by treaty. Mackinac Island
became a tourist destination in the
late 19th century and soldiers sta-
tioned at the Fort acted as park
rangers for the newly declared state
park.

Sunda

After break-
fast we packed our carry-ons and
walked down the hill to the dock.
The sun shone as it had the day we
arrived, perfect weather for a hike.
We passed Buzz on his way to the
Old Stone Church.
"Safe journey, folks," he said.
"See you next year?"
Sounds like a plan, we both
agreed.

Rates at the Grand Hotel range from
$185 to $325 per person and include
breakfast and dinner, (800-33-
GRAND, www.grandhotel.com). The
Mackinac Island Tourism Bureau (1-
800-4-LILACS) lists 12 hotels and .18
bed and breakfasts, starting at $75 per
night. I visited the Iroquois, a small,
100-year-old hotel near the docks, rec-
ommended by a couple we met on the
hydrofoil. The guest rooms and glass-
enclosed dining room are stylish and
well-appointed. Rates: $130 to $625,
without meals. (906) 847-3321,
www.iroquoishotelcom.

"We've been there summer and winter. It's fun in the summer,
but in the winter you can rent a condo, stay at a bed and break-
fast or at Mission Pointe at half the summer price. The snow-
covered rocks and trees are spectacular. It's quiet as a heart-
beat. Crowds? You can walk or ski for hours believing that the
island is yours and yours alone."

Randy Zdrojewski, Farmington Hills,
who visits the island with his daughter Tara, 17.

"The butterfly house, the biking, fudge. The boat ride was
always a treat. Seeing the Mackinac Bridge from the water was
something different. Taking campers to the island offered a
break from camp life, a taste of shopping and junk food — a
brief departure from the rigors of traditional camping."

Sid Friedman, director, Camp Tamiga, Kalkaska

"It is about childhood memories that grew into adult memories
that are all tied to the Grand Hotel. Since I was 5 I have gone
almost every summer until 25 and then sporadically after that
with my family to the Grand Hotel. It is about the flowers and
clip-clop of horses and the beauty of viewing the island from the
porch and dining room of the Grand Hotel."

Ailene Steinborn, Bloomfield Hills

"I like the island for the ice cream, the fudge and the fort. The
boat ride from Mackinac City to the island is the best. It's so fast
— like a jet. The island is so beautiful and peaceful since cars
aren't allowed."

Johnny Katz, West Bloomfield

"Once we were on a horse and buggy ride and it started to rain
and the horse just automatically turned around and went back
to where it started. It must have gone the same route so many
times, it even knew where to go when it rained."

Larry Katz, Farmington Hills

"Our family of four loves to take our bicycles to the island. We
drive them to the ferry and then ride the entire island once we
get there. One of our bikes still has a ferry ticket on it from a
couple of years ago."

Francine Levine, West Bloomfield

"It is a great place do things together as a family, but I also had
a great time on a day trip with Tamarack Camps Specialty. The
whole time at camp there were no phones to use, but on the
island, we found a pay phone on the way to see the horses in
the stables — and we snuck over and called home.

Avi Levine, 15, West Bloomfield

8 • JUNE 2004 • PLATINUM