TRAVEL GRAND G ETAWAY Escape for a long weekend to Mackinac Island, where the taxis are horse-drawn carriages, the geraniums bloom by the thousand, and the views from the Grand Hotel are the stuff of movies. BY SUSAN LAUBACH Thursday "I'm retiring in September," our friend Margaret Kappa, housekeeping consult- ant at Mackinac Island's Grand Hotel, told us by phone. "If you want to see a little piece of heaven on Earth, come visit before I go." And so we traveled to Mackinac Island. We walked up the hill to the Grand Hotel between white frame cot- tages With white picket fences enclosing gardens of geraniums, dahlias, asters, and roses, a profusion of colors. We passed a tiny chapel on our right, the Old Stone Church, according to a discreet sign announcing its scheduled services. Soon we sighted the pillared verandah — the world's longest—running 660 feet across the front of the Grand Hotel. This massive white frame structure, owned since 1933 by the Musser family, was built by two railroad companies in 1887 to accommodate wealthy folk who arrived by lake steamer from Montreal, Detroit and Chicago. The 1980 film "Somewhere in Time," starring Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymour, was filmed on location at the Grand Hotel. It inspired a huge following and a fan club that meets annually at the hotel every October, often with Jane Seymour in attendance. Carleton Varney, known for his bold stripes and floral prints in primary colors, designed the hotel's interior spaces. The enormous lobby, made cozy by the con- versational groupings of wing chairs and sofas, is carpeted in a Varney-inspired black with the Grand's signature gerani- um-red and green floral print. The walls are dark green under a sky-blue ceiling. Our room was similarly cheerful with white wood furniture (tiny geraniums adorn dressers and armoires), floral wall- paper, and blue-and-white striped sofas. Frida We walked to the village, which was lively with visitors in spite of the cool and spritzy weather. We stopped into a fine gift shop, Le Galerie, and spoke with its owner, retired music and math teacher Buzz Waggoner, about his life on the island. "Carolyn and I have had the shop for 21 years," he told us. "We go back to Wyandotte for the winters, although there is plenty to do here off-season — bridge clubs, book (continued on page 8)