Clockwise from top left: Ron Charfoos of Southfield waves an Israeli flag in response to the children's performance at the Sam and Jean Frankel Tali School in Jerusalem. Tali School students offer a patriotic - demonstration. Clare Swartz of Southfield stands in the Jewish. Quarter offerusalems Old City as a young observer watches. Sidney Stone of Farmington Hills is surrounded by children at the Tali School. Morton Eden of West Bloomfield is framed by tanks at the museum in Latrun. Ruth Vosko, right, of Farmington Hills embraces a shop clerk in the Cardo in the Old City's Jewish Quarter. into a memorial. "I'm already learning from Israelis we have to have hope," said Linda Mack of West Bloomfield. "But I don't know how they do it." As Bus 13 continued to wind down the streets of new Tel Aviv, it passed cafes and shops and empty storefronts. In one pait of the city, Kessler pointed out low, square stone apartment buildings in the German Bauhaus architectural tradition that have become a treasure. Many similar buildings were destroyed in Germany during World War II and, ironically, re- created by the Jews who escaped Hitler's forces and came to Israel. The feeling of being in Israel intensified as Bus 13 headed toward the Judean Hills in the distance and Jerusalem, where the group will be staying for six days of the 10-day trip. The historic valley beside the road is rich in farm- ing as well as ancient and modern history. Here, on these roads, the Jordanians shelled Israeli farmers before the land was secured after the Six-Day War in June 1967, the guide said. It is also where the Maccabees triumphed over the Greeks. Not only Jews were drawn to the area. Romans, Crusaders and Muslims all fought to control this area, in the "gate of the valley" in Latrun. Overlooking this valley is a more recent site, a fortress built by the British before Israel became a state. This is now the site of the museum for the Armored Brigade, Israel's biggest military corps, and also a memorial wall that honors Israelis who gave their lives to defend the country from 1948 to the present. It is most noted for the array of vintage and mod- em tanks and the long wall etched with 4,904 names of the fallen soldiers. The British handed the station to the Arabs, and the Israelis tried five times to take control of it and failed during the War of Independence. A young soldier wounded in one of the attacks is now Prime Minister Ariel Sharon. The area was finally recovered in the 1967 War. Detroiters noticed the large number of memorials to soldiers. Kessler simply said, "We commemorate those who make it possible for us to be here." Kepes was moved. "We have no idea what it's like to live here," she said. "It seems trivial the things we worry about at times, almost trite, seeing this." Entering Jerusalem, Bus 13 made an important stop at Sir Moses. Montefiore's windmill and the panoramic view of the Old City wall it provides. Many stop at this site before entering Jerusalem to say the Shehechiyanu blessing of gratitude and to eat bread dipped in salt. As one bus drove up the hills toward Jerusalem, its passengers were treated to a cantorial rendition of prayers by Arthur Sugarman, who is in the Congregation Shaarey Zedek choir and a member of Adat Shalom Synagogue. Though many had had little sleep, the day was not over. A mega-event on Mt. Scopus at Hebrew University featured special guest, former Israeli Prime Minister and current Finance Minister Binyamin Netanyahu, who embraced mission Co- Chairs Peter Alter and Richard Krugel, calling them and the Jews of Michigan "great friends." The event was broadcast live on Israeli TV, including footage and interviews taken when the Detroiters first arrived. ❑ For more photographs and daily 'Mission Moments," please see -vvww.detroitjevvishnews.com SN 4/23 2004 23