•

The Best Of Everything

Fine Dining In Hiding

"'Surprising but tasty deli combos:
Balsamic vinegar over vanilla ice cream.
Bread plowed through a bull's-eye of
honey encircled by olive oil."'
HERE COMES THE Campus
Bandit ... That is CampusBandit.com
conceived by three student friends at
ration of salad with your
hotel style from the 1920s and 1930s ...
ongevity with success
University of Michigan ... slated to give
meal? ... Or elegant tableside
so gracefully efficient.
in the restaurant busi-
eBay a run for its money.
presentation of veal Olympic
Hours are Monday-Friday, 11-10,
ness is usually deter-
The gents ... Rob Salter, Scott Lutz
(veal scaloppini sauteed in
Saturday, 4-10, Sunday, 2 -9 ... It closes
mined by numerous
and Slava Leykind have launched their
butter, scallions and mush-
Sundays following Mother's Day in May new Web site for college campuses ...
reasons ... But none more preva-
rooms,
flambeed with brandy
and reopens again on Sundays the week
lent than consistency.
beginning with U-M in Ann Arbor,
and Madeira wine) ... Shrimp
following Labor Day.
Until an eatery gets its feet
from where the three will graduate busi-
Bordelaise (shrimp sauteed in
Visiting a restaurant that seemingly is
wet and removes the glitches it
ness school, April 30.
butter with scallions, mush-
consistently
good is a pleasurable rarity
may encounter, most customers
D A NNY
Rob's parents are Janice and Dr.
rooms, green peppers and a
in itself ... But to also see continuous
will tolerate almost anything in
Michael Salter, Scott is the son of Lee
RA SKIN
light touch of tomato sauce.
low prices for quality food and excel-
recognition of their usual
and Sue Lutz and Slava's mom and pop
Se nior
Flamed with brandy and
lent service is certainly a dining experi-
beginning problems.
are Art and Nelly Leykind.
Colu mnist
Madeira wine) ... Beef Maison ence to behold.
Restaurateurs who don't clear
Check out the new Web site by the
(tenderloin sauteed in butter,
The culmination of this dining adven- three enterprising young men ...
them up are in big, big trouble!
scallions and a tomato and creme sherry
ture to a place like Moro's are the little
A restaurant that then achieves the all-
www.CampusBandit.com ... Sounds
sauce plus natural juices) ... Also
things that also make it a standout ...
important asset of consistency enters
like the beginning of a business biggie
chateaubriand for two or more ... and
Like a wooden bowl of fruits and nuts
smooth waters en route to a usually suc-
especially with the confidence folks get
brought after the meal ... A touch
cessful existence.
from the three boys being the sons of
like this may not be an earth-shat-
I don't know how it was
such fine upstanding parents.
tering one, but what a distinct
when Moro's first opened in
THE JOHNNY TRUDELL orches-
thing of beauty.
1980, but this neighborhood
tra will accompany Frank Sinatra Jr. at
Moro's seats just about 75 ...
dining gem on Allen Road off
his two-day appearance in the
and can easily be classed as one of
Southfield Road in Allen Park,
Andiamo Italia Celebrity Showroom,
the better dining jewels around.
is the epitome of consistent
Warren, Friday and Saturday, April 23
FROM A RECENT issue of
goodness whenever I go thefe.
and 24 ... Showtime is 8 p.m. with a
Esquire magazine, John Grossman
I've been back numerous
light dinner available ... Show tickets
writes about "The Secrets of the
times since a first visit in 1998
start at $20 per person.
Deli Counter":
... and have always been satis-
BIRDOG DEPT ... Terry Gladstone,
fied.
"What Ricky Jay is to magic,
onetime owner of What's On Second
Ari Weinzweig is to parmigiano-
Owner Tom Moro is
restaurant, has high words of praise for
reggiano, fragrant olive oil and
Hungarian, which may
Louie's Country Kitchen on Orchard
Tuscan salami. Which is to say he's Lake Road in Keego Harbor.
account for the smattering of
a self-taught expert, historian and
Hungarian dishes ... But this is
TYPO, ERRATA, ETC. Dept. ...
guide in his chosen field, specialty
an Italian restaurant almost all
Winner of the National Science
foods. Weinzweig is co-founder
the way ... and probably one of
Foundation fellowship was Adam Grant,
and chief buyer at Zingerman's in
the finer dollar-for-dollar din-
not Mark Grant ... Mark is his father
Ann Arbor, Mich., arguably the
ing values in Michigan.
and Marion and Jay Grant are his
best deli west of the Hudson River grandparents.
No rip-off for sure ... as
and maybe east of it as well.
example the nine-ounce filet
KORN KORNER ... From Jerry
"Now, after more than two
mignon (yes, nine, not six or
Light ... A funeral service is being held
decades traveling the world in
eight ounces) only $19 ...
in a synagogue for a man whD has just
search of great food, he's
Excellently prepared veal
passed away. At the end of the service,
crammed some of what he's
picante and veal parmigiana,
the pallbearers are carrying the casket
learned into a new book,
both $15 ... Even exquisitely
out when they accidentally bump into a
Dangling an orange peel, Mark Luecke prepares flaming
Zingerman's Guide to Good Eating wall, jarring the casket.
created veal Colombo is just
(Houghton Mifflin, $35). Here's
$17 ... and veal cutlet Maison cherries jubilee tableside at Moro's.
They hear a faint moan. They open
a taste of his wisdom.
with a rich cream sherry
the casket and find that the man is actu-
"'The most under-appreciated
sauce, $16.
ally alive.
flaming desserts for two or more ... cher- deli item: Anchovies, thanks to the
All above dishes are also served with
He lives for 10 more years and then
ries jubilee, banana tropicale and
prevalence of the ghastly tinned kind.
either the house soup or full-bodied
dies. A ceremony is again held at the
Macedonian ... served over ice cream.
True foodies should try colatura, the
minestrone, salad, vegetable and those
same synagogue, and at the end of the
The cherries jubilee, by the way, was
juice from anchovy barrels. Excellent on
delicious thinly-sliced baked Anna pota-
ceremony, the pallbearers are again car-
rated number one in this region by the
pasta and drizzled over warm potatoes.
toes ... The house soup while I was there
rying the casket.
TV Food Network.
"'Second most under appreciated:
last was an outstanding clam chowder.
As they are walking out, the man's
Classy tableside cooking by tuxedoed
Wild rice. Avoid the bland cultivated
If Tom Moro is looking to get rich
wife cries out, "Watch out for the .
servers like Mark Luecke and David
varieties and get the hand-harvested
quick, he sure isn't showing it with his
wall!" ❑
Galloro, who have been at Moro's since
bona fide wild brands from the
Moro's restaurant.
1983 ... is a standout feature ... Both are
Midwest, which are earthy, mushroomy,
And tell me another neighborhood
Danny Raskin's e-mail address is
also its highly regarded dining captains.
a bit nutty. Good with maple syrup as
white linen tablecloth and napkin
dannyraskin@sbcglobal.net
The service at Moro's is like the old
an oatmeal substitute.
restaurant that gives you tableside prepa-

Moro's in Allen Park is a culinary gem.

L

4/16
2004

54