Arts Life
The Best Of Everything
All Agog And Gooey
home-cooked food didn't really care as
they dug in with lip-smacking zest.
Folks from all walks of life came to
Samuels Brothers ... judges, showbiz
celebrities, sports figures, etc ... in
seating that was twice the size of when
it first opened many years before.
Those who didn't look for atmos-
pastrami combinations. But for
phere ... other than signs all over the
always knew that
a PB&J, all you really need is a
walls ... and didn't mind cafeteria din-
George Cantor was a
good piece of white or whole
ing ... enjoyed it as a real treat.
heck of a good writer,
wheat. For those special occa-
TO SCOTCH 'N SIRLOIN in
but I never realized
sions, or when you're serving
Detroit that actually began back in
that he had such a luscious
guests, a piece of challah or egg
1921 when the late Buddy Meyerson
passion for the favorite
bread is also appropriate. But
had a confectionery and soda shop on
sandwich of so many.
then there is no sandwich in
the corner of Oakland and Holbrook
Or at least he did 24 years
the
world
that
doesn't
taste
bet-
... People enjoyed such pleasures as-a
ago.
DANNY
ter
with
challah.
stroll
to the corner for a dish of ice
Back in 1980, George
RASKIN
"The
bread
should
be
firm.
cream
and penny rock candy and
wrote a swell piece ... which
Local Columnist
Nothing is more annoying
licorice sticks for the kids.
I happened upon while rum-
than to have your bread tear as
Buddy's and Mary's three sons,
maging through some old
you
administer
the
layer
of
peanut
Arlyn,
Jerry and Aubrey each served
books I had stashed away.
butter.
It
gets
all
over
the
counter
and
boyhood
apprenticeships at mom and
Luckily they weren't at the office
you have to wipe it off with a sponge
dad's Buddy's Log Cabin Barbeque on
and destroyed with everything else in
and it just looks sickening. So be sure
the corner of 12th and Clairmount
the tragic Jewish News fire of 2002 ...
your bread is firm and can stand
As young men, they decided to open
or else George's treatise that I found
up to the plastering it will under-
their own eatery.
on peanut butter sandwiches would
go.
Detroit was enjoying the post-
have also gone up in smoke.
"I
prefer
a
butter
knife
with
a
war
boom and expanding into
It originally appeared in the 1980
thick handle for my spreading
the suburbs ... When a location
edition of Meet, Eat c Enjoy Detroit
implement. It is easy to grip and
on the far northwest corner of
(ME6ED) by Harry Satchwell and
gives you certain flexibility, as
the city became available, they
Mary Conway ... which I had written
well.
were ready.
about at the time.
"The
peanut
butter
goes
on
Result was the Scotch 'n Sirloin,
George, who now writes a weekly
first.
This
should
be
self-evident
which
marked another milestone
column for the Jewish News, was then a
in the Meyerson family's long his-
Detroit News columnist ... and wrote in but I have heard tales of mixing
the two ingredients in advance
tory of food service.
MEth-ED how to make one properly.
and spreading them on the bread
TO BENNO'S in Detroit ...
"Proper preparation of the peanut
as an entry. If true, this is so
with only nine tables ...-and the
butter and jelly sandwich is a decep-
revolting an idea that I don't even
owner greeting you in an apron
tively simple operation that has snared
want
to
talk
about
it.
was
the same fellow who did the
more than one cook.
"Being
a
lifelong
Detroiter,
I
cooking
and everything else ... No
"Actually, I only say that because it
prefer Velvet peanut butter. Any
reservation?
No getting in ...
makes me feel good. Peanut butter
major brand will do, though,
even if the place was empty.
and jelly sandwiches are about the
except for the one that Annette
TO JAKKS LOUNGE in Oak
only kitchen function, aside from eat-
Funicello gives those smarmy TV
Park, to see what they meant by
ing, that I can perform. When I was
commercials for. Those things are
having a first ... soup and an alco-
single, the oven in my apartment
enough
to
make
you
switch
to
holic
drink at the same time ... It
remained unlit for four years. Friends
grilled
cheese.
was
called
Gazpacho Bloody Mary
came over to marvel at its virginal
"The peanut butter should be
... with the cold soup from
appearance. The only items found in
spread evenly so as to completely PB6j aficionado and JN columnist George Cantor Harriett and Jack Goldberg's Stage
my refrigerator were a carton of
cover the top surface of the
Delicatessen in Oak Park and
chocolate milk, a six-pack of beer, a
bread. Do not let it slop over the
the vodka from their nephew
loaf of bread and a jar of jelly. (Peanut
burgers
and
grilled
cheese
sandwiches.
crusts,
though.
This
reeks
of
excess
Herb
Goldberg of Jakks, who com-
butter is never kept in the refrigerator,
With
peanut
butter
coming
back
and
I
find
it
in
bad
taste.
bined
soup and vodka.
but should be stored on a shelf and
into its own as a great health food ...
"Now for the jelly. Smuckers is my
TO THE RASCAL HOUSE
served at room temperature. If you
hopefully more and more restaurants
preferred brand because the name is
opened by Bernie Glieberman, Al
have no shelf, use a card table.)
will
put back those wonderful peanut
hilarious. And, I must confess, I favor
Hacker and Jack Meyers ... predecessor
"To make an unforgettable PB&J
butter and jelly sandwiches many folks to the now-closed Golden Mushroom
preserves over true jelly. This may
sandwich, one needs only a knife
still
enjoy so much.
offend
the
purists
who
will
argue
the
... It was the location where many
besides the necessary food ingredients.
MAKING
SOME
ROUNDS
of
sandwich
I
am
describing
is
actually
a
folks
thought that Darbys, after its
"The right bread is essential. Many
yesteryears
...
peanut
butter
and
PRESERVES.
My
fire;
would
be the new restaurant
people make the mistake of permitting
TO SAMUELS BROTHERS
only response is that it's my sandwich
opening in Southfield ... Darbys did
the bread to overpower the spreads.
restaurant in Detroit's Eastern Market
and I'll call it what I damn well please.
open again ... by owner Sam Boesky
Rye, corn and pumpernickel are per-
for an enjoyable experience.
"I believe the jelly should be spread
and general manager stepson Bernie
fectly fine breads for serious sandwiches
The place may not have been much
lightly. I know that gobs of jelly look
Kerner ... but as Darbys Stanley
such as corned beef, chopped liver and
to look at, but people who liked good
attractive placed upon the peanut but-
_Steamer in Oak Park. ❑
Passion for peanut butter is not just kids' stu
I
-
ra,:7
2/ 6
2004
46
ter, but jelly does not have very good
adhesive qualities and one may wind
up with large clots of it on one's lap if
one is not as neat as one should be.
"Strawberry is the best flavor, but I
am willing to countenance cherry,
grape, raspberry — as long as it is red-
dish. The one thing I won't stand for
is apple jelly or another flavor that is
similar in color to the peanut butter.
This is aesthetically a disaster and it
can't be very healthy for you, either.
"Eat the sandwich either open or •
closed face, according to choice. For
best results, it should be accompanied
by a large glass of chocolate milk,
which helps clear the- peanut butter
from the roof your mouth."
The passing of the peanut butter
sandwich from the restaurant scene
years ago was not a popular one ... and
is something that I and, hopefully,
George, too, would like to see reversed.
At one time, the peanut butter sand:
wich was a staple on many restaurant
menus ... along with hot dogs, ham-
.