The Best Of Everything

you sort of knew that the fine young
gentlemen were going to share their
stash with barracks buddies ... as a way
of sharing a wonderful Thanksgiving.
FEW VISITS TO California would
seem right without restaurant visita-
tions to the land where dining is so
much esteemed.
And when visiting Southern
Department
...
at
the
Thanksgiving
tra with songstress Nanci
ears back, you drove
California,
many Detroiters go to Nate
dinner at the home of son Scott and
Davis, playing for listening
up to a little chalet
&
Al
Delicatessen
in Beverly Hills ... if
daughter-in-law Bonnie Raskin ... in
and dancing every Friday and
building ... A valet
only
to
see
it
today.
Coto de Caza, Calif
Saturday evening, is now in
came from across
That is, Detroiters or former
It was my first encounter with the
what had previously been a
the street to take your car and
Detroiters
who remember when Al
fine
program
instituted
by
the
Camp
storage region ... enlarged and
park it within private confines.
Mendelson
and wife, Tessie, left Detroit
Pendleton
YMCA
in
which
900
U.S.
remodeled to give the added
When opening the door at
for
the
sunny
clime of California.
Marines from the base spent
space.
Mario's on Second Boulevard
Both
Nate
and
Al had been counter-
Thanksgiving Day at the homes of
On the opposite side of the
DAN NY
in Detroit, there was a treat in
men
at
Boesky's
on
12th and
those people who signed up for the
main dining room are three
store for multitudes of dining
RAS KIN
Hazelwood.
alcove openings behind which agenda.
fans who considered it among
Local Columnist is a small private-like dining
The highly acclaimed Nate & Al
Who would have thought that six
the better providers of North
Jewish
delicatessen is now run by Al's
pies
almost
wasn't
enough?
...
Or
two
area of two four-top tables
Italian fare.
grandsons,
Mark and David
large turkeys ... or six huge drumsticks
that offers a quiet romantic setting.
After walking through a lounge with
Mendelson,
with Tessie still active.
... or 10 pounds of stuffing ... plus
Also added is a well-stocked wine
well-appointed bar, about 12 high
From
its
opening
in 1945 ... with just
oodles and oodles of side dishes?
room which was formerly an outdoor
stools and seating for around 40, you
30
seats
then
...
it
is
... and has been for
One of the Marines showed us the
landscaped sector ... And the check-
then went into a large, airy dining
years
...
considered
among
the finest
picture on his ID card after enlisting ...
room when people entered is no more
room replete with walnut, oak, linen
Jewish
delicatessens
on
the
West Coast.
He
weighed
about
215
pounds
...
Now
... It has been moved to a spot where
tablecloths and napkins, and choice
Nate & Al Deli became a big favorite
it's
170
pounds
of
rippling
muscles
...
the new renovation has garments
paintings in a quietly ornate setting.
of the Hollywood movie set ... from
Mario Lelli was its owner then ... and
hopefuls to super stars ... among
the main dining room seating was for
numerous noted sports and other
only about 120 in an area that wasn't
celebrities ... en route to its present rep-
much more than 3,000 square feet.
utation as a deli-restaurant institution.
Other renovations and changes were
ONE OF THE BIGGEST questions
done after he sold it in 1980.
at the Five Feet Restaurant in Laguna
But the latest in modernistic recon-
Beach, Calif., is where it got its name.
struction at Mario's is with little doubt
Easy to answer ... being five feet
among its best ones yet.
above sea level off the Pacific.
The outside chalet look is still there
This is one of California's better
... This has become somewhat of a tra-
Chinese Contemporary or Asian restau-
ditional trademark ... However other
rants ... with its unusual menu items
alterations have given it an even more
and beautiful presentations.
styling and striking changeover from its
Can't think of another Asian dining
former appearance.
spot that serves Pacific Swordfish
No more waiting in the cold weather
medallions wokked in Chinese and
for the valet to bring your car ... or for
Cajun spices with garlic, chilies and
the Mario's shuttle bus that takes folks
lemon juice ... served on a bed of Thai
The renovations at Mario's on Second in Detroit are strikingly stylish.
to and from the various theaters, sport-
noodle salad tossed with peanut sauce
ing events, etc. ... Now there is a con-
and julienne vegetables.
The fellows work hard daily... walking
checked ... and then picked up on
venient new area ... heated and air-con-
Five Feet is not a huge place ... but
miles with heavy pack, clearing roads
another side close to the new exit.
ditioned with Venetian tiles within
very
comfortable and clean ... with
and terrains, jumping hurdles, zigzag-
The elegant and glowingly familiar
Roman pillars ... and completely
excellent
service.
ging over tires, etc. from sunup to sun-
Mario's sign continues to glisten majes-
enclosed behind comfy glass.
LIKE
I
ALWAYS - SAY, a good neigh-
down
...
to
make
them
strong
...
very
tically ... but in a new position ...
Seven more feet has been added to the
borhood
restaurant
is worth its weight
strong ... in body and mind.
moved to be above the new entrance.
Mario's building ... And now customers
in
kosher
salt.
Their basic training is very hard but
There are other choice transforma-
come in one new door and go out
And the Tutto Fresco Trattoria in
tions made at Mario's ... But thankfully, in the end much appreciated in the
another where landscaping once was.
Rancho
Santa Margarita certainly is that
realization that it could one day save
Vince Passalaqua has not made any
Inside Mario's, the bar is still there ...
...
with
many
folks making meals from
their lives ... and make them better pre-
changes to the food ... If anything, it
But instead of tables in the lounge in
much
of
the
appetizers
and 10 salads ...
pared for the many ordeals of living.
seems to have gotten even better ... and
front of it are three comfortable booths
Plenty of Italian entrees, too, for the
This
is
why
the
fellows
ate
so
much
that's saying a lot because the dishes at
and a half-wall separating it from the
... Sure, they get plenty of food at camp hungry ... and even the newly popular
Mario's have always been good.
Chicken Caesar sandwich ... grilled
bar sector.
THERE WERE 19 for Thanksgiving ... but this was home-cooking, folks,
Off to one side of the main dining
breast, Caesar salad, roasted red peppers
just like their moms made back home.
dinner ... including three U.S. Marines
room, a former storage area has been
and onions on grilled ciabatti bread.
When they left, Bonnie gave them
from Camp Pendleton ... Just a tiny
made part of the room to give more
ONLY OPEN UNTIL 2 p.m. seven
bags of her homemade chocolate chip
speck way of saying "thanks" to our
seating and of course a much larger
days
a week, but one of the cleanest
cookies ... "We could get a buck apiece
men and women in the armed forces.
appearance ... The Charles Hill orches-
and
well-run
spots for breakfast and
for these," said one with a smile ... but
Also a special agent of the U.S. State

Looking Mighty Good

Facelift by Mario's in Detroit keeps pace with its fine Italian cuisine.

y

12/12

2003

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