OTHER VIEWS Helping Seeds Grow The kids write and then talk uring a lull this about how they see the city: past summer, a Julia, a daughter of Russian period of no immigrants, notes as she fin- explosions and gers the fringe of her long easy checkpoints, I joined 25 peasant skirt, We always say Israeli and-Palestinian prayers, 'Next Year in teenagers in Jerusalem. Jerusalem.' This was the heart Cocooned by their diversity, I of Zion. It's God's city because thought no suicide attack, or the Temple was here." as Mahmoud from Gaza BETH AVIV Haider from East Jerusalem called them, "military opera- GREENBAUM wears a baseball cap and rolled tion," would touch us as we Community jeans. He says, "The prophet toured together both the Arab Views Muhamed came here to Al and Jewish sectors of Aksa and to the sky." Jerusalem. Mashleen, a Christian Arab All summer long, the See& from Haifa who wears blue nail polish of Peace Center for Coexistence on and several bangle bracelets says, "It's French Hill offers programs to reunite where Jesus walked. I get strong, power- teens from Israel, the West Bank and ful feelings." Gala who have attended the Seeds of She pauses and adds thoughtfully, "At Peace Camp in Otisfield, Maine. The the end, there's only one God. I guess camp brings together teens who are the God has a message for us: this is how "seeds" of hope from war-torn regions: you have to learn to live together." Israel, the Palestinian territories, Jordan We walk together through the Cardo, - and Egypt; Afganistan; India and the Old City market, and climb to the Pakistan, the Balkans. top of the Lutheran Church for the What the Center in Jerusalem does views. We visit Mea Shearim and Sala.din best, according to Jen Marlowe, the assis- Street. In a West Jerusalem cafe, we listen tant director, "is inspire and allow the to Joel Weinberg, a Knesset member. In teens to be inspirational to each other." an East Jerusalem hotel, we listen to Sari To help this happen, Jen gets up at 4 Nusseibeh, president of Al Quds a.m. to pick up "Seeds" from Gaza, University. The kids wear their green Jenin, Jericho, Nablus, Hebron, Haifa, Seeds of Peace T-shirts from camp or Hadera, Beit Shemesh, Afula and newly issued white ones with Jerusalem Ashdod, and brings them to the semi- printed in Hebrew, English and Arabic nars in Jerusalem. on the back. You can't really tell, just by The first stop of our "Intensive looking, who's an Arab and who's a Jew. Jerusalem Seminar" is on the Mount of In Tmol Shilshom, a cafe-bookstore Olives overlooking the walled city with steps from Zion Square, we listen to its synagogues, mosques and churches. Zelig Feiner from the humanitarian organization ZAKA, a group of Beth Aviv Greenbaum is an English Orthodox volunteers who scrape up sev- teacher at Birmingham Groves High ered skin and bone after suicide bomb- School and author of "Bearing Witness: ings. Fade!, who is from Jenin and who Teaching About the Holocaust" has said he would die for Jerusalem, rais- (Heinemann, 2001). Living Israel's Contradictions Jerusalem first, the good news about Israel: "SpongeBob SquarePants" is a big hit with kids here. That may sound silly, but when you're looking for "normal" in a country beset by as many problems as Israel, the fact that many children are enjoying a happy childhood in the midst of the ri 3N 11/21 2003 38 Bob Menaker is editor of the Atlanta Jewish Times, sister publication of the Detroit Jewish News. His e-mail address is bmenaker@atljewishtimes.com Palestinian intifada (uprising) is nothing short of amazing. That's what struck me on my first visit to Israel in more than 30 years: Everything seems so normal. Take Tamara Schohat, a young mother I met in Yokneam, a north- ern town of some 17,000. Like most suburban American parents, her biggest daily problems are get- ting her kids off to school in time, commuting to Haifa — where she teaches at a university — and put- ting dinner on the table for her family. Haider, a Muslim Arab from East Jerusalem, gazes at the Western Wall es his hand. He wants to know if he, as a Palestinian, can volunteer, too. Feiner says, "Welcome." Later at a dinner prepared by local Jewish and Arab families, Sharif, from East Jerusalem, tells me that 9-11 was surely planned by the Israeli Mossad. I answer, "You know that's a myth." Shard's mud-colored eyes widen as if to say, "Yeah, right." I catch my breath and ask him to explain. And he does, reiterating what he heard on Al Jazeera: that 4,000 Jews did not show up for work on Sept. 11, that the pilots must have been trained by the Israeli air force. He would have had me convinced if I didn't know better. How to reconcile your will for peace — and your fear of bombs? How to rec- oncile your love of Israel and your intense desire be able to walk through Jerusalem without fear — with your will to see the Palestinians feel they too, can be safe? How do you end this conflict? How do you live in peace? At the end of our four days together, as we gather on the tayelet overlooking Jerusalem for one last look, Sharif declares that one day he and his friends will be leaders in education, in business, in medicine, in government. "If you think about it," he says, "Seeds of Peace is going to take over the world. One of the 2,000 kids will be a minister or ruler. If he's a ruler, he'll have more thoughts before sending tanks. When we start working for peace, we'll need allies. Other Seeds are allies. "John Wallach [the founder of Seeds of Peace] had a perfect plan. Imagine if Seeds become leaders who have allies; we'll have peace in 24 hours. So in 20 years, there's a great future — if every- thing works as planned. If no one kills us." ❑ General Assembly (GA) here, lives in Kedumim, a But while Schohat and settlement of some 4,000 her friends and family are people that sits far inside living lives much like ours the occupied territories. — Yokneam has never been For Shilloh, "the war is hit by a terrorist attack — inside Israel" and won't many Israelis are not. end anytime soon because Shoshana Shilloh's "nor- it's unlikely that any zig- BOB mal" day means wearing zag of the security fence MENAKER body armor, checking secu- Israel is building will ever Special rity cameras and making reach her town. Commentary sure her assault rifle is Those two women — loaded. This former army Schohat and Shilloh — lieutenant, whom I met embody the yin and yang of Israeli during the opening session of the society: the desire to enjoy the United Jewish Communities'