BY LINDA BACHRACK T here's an excited buzz around town about the intimate, but casual, gourmet restaurant tucked away on Cass Lake Road in Keego Harbor. Jeremy barely opened its doors before those in search of a classic dining experi- ence were singing its praises. The chef behind his namesake eatery is Jeremy Grandon, a 29- year-old talent who honed his skills under the tutelage of Tribute's Chef Takashi. A graduate of U-M and the Culinary Institute of America, Grandon grew up in Bloomfield and attended Andover High School. He's been cooking at home since he was a kid. "I was always fascinated with the cooking shows on TV," he says. "I wanted to bring something to Detroit that was like New York or Chicago," says Grandon. "I think the area is lacking in contemporary food with traditional flavors. We use lots of juices, oils and vinai- grettes. You won't find a meat stock here." Grandon's menu is well-edited and creative. His signature appetiz- ers include a grilled asparagus, radicchio and Portobello mushroom salad topped with an egg over-easy Right: Poached figs with mas- carpone mousse, walnuts and red wine caramel. Opposite page, clockwise: Red snapper in yellow curry with somen noodles, bok choy and shiitake mushrooms. Seared scallops with cauli- flower-almond puree, green grapes and golden raisins. Strip steak with cheddar mashed potatoes, green beans and onion jam. and a sherry vinaigrette. "It's a pretty traditional Italian dish," says Grandon, "but the vinaigrette is my own interpretation." Another highlight is the seared scallop appetizer plated with a cauliflower- almond puree, green grapes and golden raisins — a top seller and one of Grandon's original creations. The entrees, limited to five or six choices, range from red snapper and salmon to lemon chicken with polenta, a strip steak and a spicy pasta dish. The snapper, nestled in a bed of somen noodles, bok choy and shiitake mushrooms, is lightly sauced in a delicate yellow curry, while the steak, Grandon's only nod to meat and potatoes, is bathed in a port wine-balsamic reduction and topped with crisp green beans. Its accompanying mashed potatoes are redolent with cheddar. Sous chef Nick Orlandino, for- merly the pastry chef at Sweet Georgia Brown, shares dessert responsibilities with Grandon. "Jeremy's goat-cheesecake is the best you'll ever taste," says Orlandino, "and I always thought my cheesecake recipe was out- standing." The duo also prepares a classic crème brulee and a choco- late terrine. Grandon's wife, Paula, takes charge of the front of the house, and Jeremy is keenly aware of his place in the back. "We originally thought Paula would be the bar- tender/host/reservationist," says Grandon. "We expected maybe 30- 50 people a night." But the restau- rant's been packing in more than 100 diners a night, and upwards of 130 on Saturday. They come for the relaxed ambience, the friendly service and the intimate dining experience, but most of all, they come for Jeremy Grandon's cooking.