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August 01, 2003 - Image 87

Resource type:
Text
Publication:
The Detroit Jewish News, 2003-08-01

Disclaimer: Computer generated plain text may have errors. Read more about this.

food

M'm! 1VI'm! COLD!

Chilled soup is a summertime treat.

ANNABEL COHEN
Special to the Jewish News

t's August and summer seems to
be racing by fast. Every year
faster. This is the month where
we force ourselves to slow down
and savor the last days before fall.
Though the official change of sea-
sons is weeks and weeks away, calen-
dar-wise, on Labor Day, we change
our mindset. To us, August is the last
gasp. We think of all the ways to keep
cool, while consciously eating the
summer foods we will miss soon
enough.
Cold soup is the only food that's
only eaten in summer. While salads
always have a space on our menus,
cold soups seem ridiculous during the
frosty weather.
It used to be that cold soup had two
audiences. Ladies who lunch were
served cool cucumber purees dotted
with dill or mint at bridal showers.
Those who wanted. Latin flavors were
served gazpacho.
In the past, doubters dismissed cold
soups, often because of naivete —
they're used to soup hot. Some skep-
tics reject them with good reason.
Certain chilled soups taste more like
dessert than real food. Berry soups, for
example, are seldom paired with
savory ingredients like onions and
often are equally good as cake or ice
cream toppings.
Most people are more broad-mind-
ed these days. Awareness has risen as
restaurants and cooking shows have
spoon-fed us the notion that cold
soup is a good thing, even desirable.
And once discovered, tasted and
judged, we realize that chilled liquids
that aren't drinks are delicious and
befitting as a prelude to a meal.
While chilled soup may never
replace the hot brews we devour dur-
ing the winter months, there is a place
for it at our table. And no one will
ever complain that the soup is cold.
The following soups can be made
up to a day in advance and served as
appetizers, in small cups or bowls or
instead of salad. They're mostly vege-
tarian or can be made so to serve with
any meal.

ROASTED YELLOW PEPPER SOUP
3 pounds yellow bell peppers (about 8)
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cups chopped onions
1 t. ground cumin
1/4 cup flour
1/2 cup tomato paste
6 cups chicken broth (canned is fine)
or water
1-2 T. hot red pepper sauce (such as
Tabasco) to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
Juice of 1 lemon or lime
1/2 cup fresh chopped parsley,
chopped red bell pepper, basil or fresh
mint leaves for garnish
Sour cream or whipping cream for gar-
nish, optional
Char the whole yellow bell peppers (do
not cut) directly over gas flame, on the
grill or in broiler (directly on the rack
with a baking pan on the rack below)
until the skin is completely blackened on
all sides. (This may seem extreme, but it's
important or the skin will not peel off
easily.)
Enclose the peppers in a paper bag or
wrap completely in foil until they are
cool enough to handle with your hands.
Using your fingers, peel the peppers by
rubbing the charred skin off with your
fingers. (You may do this under running
water if you like — don't worry if the
peppers tear while you peel them.)
Remove the stem and seeds from the
peppers. Place the peppers in the bowl of
a food processor or blender, with the pep-
per sauce to taste, and puree them until
smooth.
Meanwhile, heat oil in a soup pot over
medium-high heat. Add the chopped
onions and cumin and cook, stirring,
until the onions are softened. Add the
flour and cook the onions, stirring fre-
quently, for another 3 minutes. Remove
the onions from the heat and let cool a
few minutes before adding them to the
pureed peppers. Add the tomato paste to
the peppers as well.
Puree the onions, peppers and tomato
paste until smooth. Slowly pour the
chicken broth into the puree with the
motor running and continue to blend
until smooth. Add red pepper sauce.
Season to taste with salt and pepper and
add the juice just before serving. Garnish
the soup with parsley and a dollop of sour
cream if desired. The soup is delicious
served hot as well. Makes 8 10 servings.

-

CHILLED FISH AND
TOMATO SOUP
2 T. olive oil
1 cup chopped onions
1 tsp. chopped garlic
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup chopped fennel bulb
4 cups V-8 or other spicy tomato juice
4 cups water
3 pound chopped ripe tomatoes,
unpeeled
2 cups diced red-skinned potatoes
1 t. dried oregano
1 pinch (about 1 t.) saffron threads
2 pounds raw boneless and skinless
fish fillets, such as salmon, halibut,
tuna or a combination of fish, cut
into 1-inch pieces
1 cup fresh chopped parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Heat oil in large pot over medium-high
heat. Add onion, garlic, celery and fennel.
Cook, stirring occasionally, until the veg-
etables are softened, about 8 minutes. Add
juice, water, tomatoes, potatoes, oregano
and saffron and bring to boil. Reduce
heat, cover and simmer for 40 minutes.
Add the fish, parsley, salt and pepper and
simmer for 10 minutes more. Remove
from heat, cool and chill until ready to
eat. Adjust seasonings and serve the soup
in large bowls. Makes 8 servings.

CHILLED CARROT SOUP
WITH CURRY
The essence of simplicity, this soup is
great cold or hot, served alone or gar-
nished with apricot flavored yogurt. Or,
try it blended with ice as a smoothie
appetizer served in champagne flutes.
2 T. olive oil
2 cups chopped onion
1 t. chopped garlic
2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into
chunks
2 T. flour
1 T. curry powder
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
Salt and white pepper to taste
Juice of 1 lime
1 T. apricot jam, optional
1 cup plain lowfat yogurt, optional
Fresh cilantro leaves, garnish
Heat oil in a large saucepan over
medium-high heat. Add onions and Gar-
lic and cook, stirring frequently, until
the onions are softened, about 5 min-
utes. Add the carrots, flour and curry
powder and cook the mixture, stirring, for

8/ 1

2003

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