Heartbreak in Iraq CARLOS C. HUERTA Special Commentary Ninevah, Iraq am writing from Nineveh, the city of the prophet Jonah. Its present name is Mosul. I have had the privilege of seeing its ancient walls, of touching its stones and of going to the grave that Islamic tradition says is the prophet Jonah's. I am the rabbi of the 101st Airborne Division, the division that Steven Spielberg immortalized in his epic HBO miniseries "Band of Brothers." We, the soldiers of the 101st Airborne, fought our way up from the south, from Kuwait. The battle took us past Ur, the city where Abraham was born. We maintained contact with the enemy, passed the site of the great Talmudic academies of Sum and Pumpaditya, to the city of Babylon, where the prophet Daniel was taken. There we engaged the Nebuchadnezzar Iraqi Armored Division and beat them. We continued the battle to Baghdad, where so many Jews lived and were massacred in the summer of 1948. It was the city of so many of our sages, including the Ben Ish Chai. Rabbi Carlos C. Huerta is an Army chaplain serving in Iraq. This column first appeared in the Jerusalem Post. I Now we are in Mosul. I ask about the Jews who lived here, and very few remember them. Many say Jews never lived here; but my heart tells me differ- ent. The old ones tell me there was a Jewish quarter, a synagogue, study halls and a cemetery. One day, while searching the streets of the ancient city I came across a building missing half of its roof. The site was a garbage dump and the building's interior was three-quarters full of rotting garbage, feces and sewage. I had to crouch down low to get inside as the doorway was almost completely buried. As I entered, light came through the half-open roof and I could just make out writing engraved on the walls. It was Hebrew. It was then that I knew I had stumbled into the ancient synagogue of the city of Mosul-Nineveh. My heart broke as I climbed over the garbage piles that filled the room where, for hundreds of years, the prayers of Jews had reached the heavens. I realized I was probably the first Jew to enter this holy place in over 50 years. Many Iraqis congregated around me, wanting to know what I was doing. My translator said that the American army was interested in old archeological sites of all kinds. I asked them if they knew what this place was, and they all said in an instant: If The Road Map Fails Washington W hen Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon visits with President George W. Bush this week, he will ask a question on the minds of many Israelis: What if the road map for peace fails? While Sharon will reaffirm his gov- ernment's commitment to seeking ways to make the U.S.-backed plan work, the increasing evidence that the Palestinians are unable or unwilling to keep their end of the bargain is rais- ing the obvious question of what to do if the peace efforts collapse. To date, it seems, none of the four architects of the so-called road map — the United Nations, the European Union, Russia and the United States — has given much thought to the prospect of failure. They appear more interested in meeting their own self-imposed road- map deadlines than in the realities on the ground. Tom Neumann is executive director of the Jewish Institute for National Security Affairs. His e-mail address is tneumann@jinsa.org The United States, for example, which declared last year that it would no longer deal with Palestinian Authority President Yasser Arafat, is turning a blind eye to the reality that Arafat is continuing to call the shots. And all four sponsors of the road map are ignoring the reality that the Palestinians have refused to disarm their terrorist organizations, one of the plan's most urgent requirements. The Palestinian leadership claims it is powerless to disarm the terrorists or dismantle their infrastructure. And instead of insisting they comply, the sponsors are taking the easier route: pressuring Israel to make even more concessions than called for in the plan. So far, while the Palestinians have done little or nothing, Israel has with- drawn troops from parts of Gaza and the West Bank, dismantled dozens of unauthorized settlements, eased road- blocks and other travel restrictions, released hundreds of Palestinian pris- oners and offered the Palestinian gov- ernment millions of tax dollars. Instead of reciprocating, the Palestinians say they can't move for- ward unless Israel does more. They It was the house where the Jews prayed. They told me that the houses in the streets surrounding the synagogue had been filled with Jews. They took me to the children's yeshivah, a marbled edi- fice that no longer had a roof, only walls and half-rooms. As I walked through the quarter, I was shown the grave of the prophet Daniel, once a synagogue. I saw that many of the doorposts had an engraving of the lion of Judah on the top. I felt the presence of our people, of their daily lives as merchants, teachers, rabbis, doctors and tailors. I felt their rush to get ready for Shabbat, felt their presence as they walked to the synagogue on Yom Kippur. I could almost hear the Pesach songs echoing through the narrow streets late into the night. And the children, I could see their shadows as they raced down the alleys and around the corners, playing. I heard their voices learning the alef beth in the yeshivot as they prepared for their bar and bat mitzvot. But I also heard the babies crying, and I could see the young daughters of Zion clinging to their mother's skirts, asking why the bad people were killing them and making them leave their homes of thousands of years. How does one absorb this kind of experience? How do I convey the feeling of hearing all those voices reaching out in prayer at the synagogue as I stood on top of all that garbage? How do I recover our history, how do I bring honor to a holy place that has been so desecrated? I have no answers. I only have great sadness, pain and loneliness. Since then, I have gone back to the Jewish quarter of old Mosul with mem- bers of my congregation, Jewish soldiers of the 101st: infantrymen, artillerymen, medics, pilots, lawyers, doctors — all proud to be Jewish and serving their country. Together we have found five more synagogues, more yeshivot and many Jewish homes. They have all come away profoundly affected by what they saw They are saddened, but yet proud to be connected to such an ancient and rich tradition in this historic city of Nineveh. I have not yet discovered the ancient Jewish cemetery of the Jews of Mosul- Nineveh. My instincts tell me it is near- by, but in the last 60 years, it has proba- bly been desecrated and obliterated. There is a great history to be written here, a great opportunity to recover the lost narrative of our people, the Sephardim of Iraq. My prayer and hope is that when the gates finally open for scholars, the remnants of our people will still be here for historians to recover. ❑ are now calling for the release who has declared that the of all prisoners, including United States will not deal known terrorists and murder- with Arafat, and has demand- ers, faster dismantling of ed that the terrorists be dis- Jewish settlements, further armed and their infrastruc- withdrawal of Israeli troops ture dismantled. They also — and removal of all restric- insult Israel, without whom, tions on Arafat. needless to say, no progress This is not the way it was can be made. TOM supposed to be. The demands Sharon is well aware of the NEUMANN go well beyond the road map. politics involved, and the Special Yet incredibly, the other road desire of the United States to Commentary map sponsors — the not only bring peace to the European Union, Russia and Middle East but to improve the United Nations — are providing its still strained relations with Europe. the Palestinians with public support He will tell Bush that he will contin- on these issues. ue to do all he can to make the road Worse, they have declared that they map work. intend to continue to deal directly But he will also remind the presi- with Arafat as the recognized leader dent that his primary responsibility is of the Palestinians, regardless of the the security of the Israeli people. wishes of the United States and Israel Neither he nor any other Israeli leader and of the many Palestinian moder- can compromise on this. They cannot ates who are sick of Arafat's corrup- be expected to make concession after tion. concession without any indication By conferring this recognition on that the Palestinians are willing to Arafat, the United Nations, European move against the terrorists. Union and Russia are seriously under- Sharon will also make it clear that mining the authority of Palestinian unless things change, the road map is Prime Minister Mahmoud Abbas as good as dead. while they torpedo their own road Does the United States have a fall- map. back plan? It should. As things are At the same time, they appear to be going, it will almost certainly need deliberately snubbing President Bush, one. 8/ 1 2003 ❑ 27