BY LYNNE MEREDITH SCHREIBER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GLENN TRIEST O n Shabbat, Slav 17, Young Israel of Oak Park emitted the husky-sweet aroma of cholent, a stew that traces its origins to ancient days. The occasion: a competition to find Detroit's best cholent chef. Although 200 participants spent the better part of the afternoon debating the merits of one stew over another, the winner emerged — the Motor City Cholent by Dennis Yashinsky. No one knows exactly what makes his stew so special, except that he sautees onions before throwing them in the pot. Because the Torah forbids cook- ing on the Sabbath (Exodus 35:3), a devout sect of Jews at the time of the second temple ate something hot on Shabbat out of respect for the Oral Law. (They opposed a group who ignored the Oral Law). Although it's forbidden to light a fire on Shabbat, it's OK to use one that started before sundown. A cholent starts cooking on Friday and continues, today in crock pots or ovens, until Saturday lunch. The idea for the competition came from Lisa Winer, a twen- tysomething YIOP member. Inspired by the Food Network TV show, "The Iron Chef," Winer approached Rabbi Reuven Spolter about hosting a program called "The Iron Blech." (A blech is a secondary heating device that allows Jews to warm food on Shabbat without violating laws.) Winer, an assistant attorney gen- eral, convened a committee, including Yeshivat Akiva teacher Beth Raz and psychology student Bellischa Mendelsohn. "We wanted to taste good food, and we wanted it to be fun," says Winer. The competition was then opened to the community. Chefs had to prepare a kosher cholent; Rabbi Spolter checked ingredients before they went into the seven- quart crock pots that the shul pro- 1 8 • JULY 2003 • STYLE AT THE JN Jason Roskind and Rabbi Reuven Spol r Meir Schochet and his mom, Abbey Schochet. Jennifer Stiber and Lisa Winer chickpeas, in addition to the stan- dard meat and potatoes. German cholents are soupy, and nowadays some health-conscious chefs make cholents of chicken and grains. Seven of the 12 chefs were men, which is representative of the many men who make cholent weekly. The reason, says Rabbi Spolter, is that "cholent is a man's food! It's meat and potatoes." Also, it's easy — a chef can throw in vir- tually any ingredient and run a good chance of not messing up. "Cholent is ingrained in our his- tory," says Mendelsohn. "My father's mother used to make it in the ground to keep it warm. We're connecting to our past through this food." 'sa t Cholent committee: Bellischa Mendelsohn, Ida Kleid, Estelle Gelberman, Rebecca Feldman, Lisa Winer, Jennifer Stiber, Mintzi Schramm, Beth Raz vided. Lunch attendees sampled salads and kugels along with cupfuls of cholent. Most were meat-based, but one featured chicken and grains and another was vegetarian. Cholents carry the characteristics of their communities of origin. Sephardic cholents (called chamim) contain prunes, eggs and