_ r -jr r _1_1_1_1 Delicious ways to enjoy the lovely tomato. ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News le've waited all year for this. Tomatoes are getter riper by the day and more delicious. Eaten fresh, out of the hand, with _ a little salt sprinkled over, is my idea of tomato heaven. But if you're looking for more ways to enjoy this summer delight, there are methods and recipes beyond the garnish for your burger. Yes, we know that technically the tomato is a fruit. But it's commonly eaten as a vegetable, adorn- ing salads, chopped into salsa, or sauced over pasta. Exceptions are the various cakes and jams made with tomatoes. It's the added sugar that makes it sweet enough to eat in these ways (just like other veggie ingredients like carrots and zucchini). The following recipes take full advan- tage of the season's bounty. And feel free to substitute different varieties of toma- toes in the recipes. water to a boil. Use a sharp knife to cut a big "X" in the bottom on the tomato (not the stem side). Go into the flesh, but not deep. Plunge the tomato into the boiling water and watch for the skin to begin to peel back from the "X." Remove the tomato with a slotted spoon and plunge it into a bowl filled with cold water. Let it cool to the touch and carefully peel off the skin (don't worry if you don't get it all). FAST AND FRESH TOMATO SAUCE 1 large onion, cut into chunks 2 pounds ripe tomatoes, cut into large chunks 1 t. chopped garlic 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 2 T. dried parsley flakes 2 T. dried basil sea salt and pepper to taste Tomato Primer How do I know tomatoes are good? Chances are, if there are a lot of them and they're cheaper than usual, they're in season and they're generally good. How to spot the perfect tomato: Look and feel. Tomatoes should be smooth- skinned and plump to the eye. Pick them up and they should be heavy for their size. Press the flesh and it should be firm, not watery. Watery tomatoes are usually overripe. If possible, take a nibble. It should be sweet. Where do I store them: Common practice is to keep tomatoes out, al fresco. If you're the type who won't eat your pur- chase in the next day or two, put them in the fridge (don't leave them in the plastic bag). Bring the toma- toes back to room temperature before eating them. To seed or not to seed? Personally, I like seeds; they don't bother me taste-wise and I like the little cream- colored dots they add to foods. In salsas and sauces, I leave them in. The problem with seeds, however, is that they're imbedded in a watery pulp that doesn't always lend itself to good cooking. The roasted stuffed tomato recipe below is a prime example. Leaving the seeds in would make the stuffing runny. To peel or not to peel? Again, for salsas and salads, I usually go with peel. For long cooked sauces, peel sometimes just doesn't work. It eventually falls off the tomato and can leaves red strings of tomato skins in your sauce, adding neither texture or flavor. A quick way to peel tomatoes is to bring a pot of 7/11 2003 72 Place the onions in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to chop. Add the tomatoes and pulse again to chop. Transfer the vegetables to a large skillet over medi- um-high heat. Add remaining ingredients and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat and cook, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. Adjust seasonings to taste and serve hot , warm or at room temperature over fresh cooked pasta (drained but not rinsed), or baked potatoes, omelet or frittata or anything that strikes your fancy. Makes 6 cups of sauce. FAST GRILLED HALIBUT WITH YELLOW TOMATO COULIS 6 1-inch-thick halibut steaks (about 3 pounds) olive oil for brushing on fish kosher salt and pepper to taste 1 t. granulated garlic 2 t. sugar 1 lime, cut into 6 wedges 1 pint red grape tomatoes, sliced vertically, garnish Spray grill grates when cold with non-stick cook- ing spray. Heat grill to medium high. Brush fish with oil and season with salt, pepper and garlic. Sprinkle the sugar over the fish. Grill the steaks for about 10-15 minutes, turning them over a few times to sear grill marks on them. Serve the halibut hot, in a pool of tomato coatis (recipe below) and garnished with lime wedges and the red grape tomato halves. Makes 6 servings. YELLOW TOMATO COULIS A lovely and easy sauce to serve with grilled fish, chicken or steak. 1 T. olive oil 1 cup chopped onions 3/4 pound yellow tomatoes (you may use cherry as well) 1 T. white-wine vinegar 3/4 t. salt 1/8 t. white pepper Heat oil in a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and saute until very soft. Remove from heat. Set aside a few minutes to cool. Meanwhile, place the remaining ingre- dients, plus the onions, in the bowl of a food processor or the pitcher of a blender and process or blend until smooth. Strain if desired or serve as is. ROASTED STUFFED TOMATOES 8 plum or Roma tomatoes, halved ver- tically, with seed pockets removed kosher salt and pepper to taste 2 T. olive oil 1/2 cup grated Asiago cheese, or more to taste Stuffing: 1 1/2 cups plain bread crumbs 1/2 cup finely chopped onion 1 t. minced garlic 1/2 cup chopped basil leaves 1/4 cup fresh chopped parsley 1/2 t. dried thyme Arrange the tomatoes on a baking sheet, cut sides up. Sprinkle the insides with salt and pepper. Set aside. Combine all the stuffing ingredients in a medium bowl and stir well. Add salt and pepper to taste and spoon this mixture into the tomato halves. Drizzle the olive oil over the tomatoes and sprinkle with the orated cheese. To cook, remove the tomatoes from the refrigera- tor 1 hour before baking. Preheat oven to 425F.