Culinary Delights

What's cooking Up North?

BY LISA BRODY

D

riving north on 1-75, your
thoughts may wander to
lazy days at the beach,
bicycling, sailing, fishing,
antiquing and shopping.
For more and more people on their
northern pilgrimage, thoughts turn to
food, and particularly to
the wonderful restaurants
that northern Michigan
now affords to residents
and visitors alike. Once
upon a time, dining Up
North meant broiled
whitefish, whitefish salad
and French toast. Today,
northern Michigan dining
is a rich and varied cornu-
copia of culinary delights.
One of the finest exam-
ples of fine dining Up
North is Tapawingo, in
Ellsworth, not far from
Charlevoix. Open only
for dinner, reservations are
a must, especially in the
prime months of July and
August, when the restau-
rant is open daily and
patio service is available as
well. Tapawingo features
modern American cook-
ing, with nods to French
cooking, "though not to
the heavy sauces," notes
owner/chef Pete Peterson.
"We like to use as many
local, natural ingredients
as possible," he says, "from local pro-
duce, wild mushrooms and fish, to
fresh pheasant and rabbit." He
acknowledges that he has an "adven-
turous menu," featuring a signature
appetizer of Moroccan spice-cured
salmon served with hearts of palm.
Peterson is especially proud that new
Executive Chef Stuart Brioza has been

5/16
2003

8

named one of Food and Wine maga-
zine's best new American chefs. He
will be on the cover of the magazine's
July issue.
In Charlevoix, diners love Terry's
Place. "It's a limited menu, but it's
small and cozy," notes Bloomfield

Hills resident Janet Adler, who owns a
northern Michigan home with her
husband, Jay. Terry's Place, open daily
for dinners only, does not accept reser-
vations, but people willingly wait in
line for their whitefish, perch and
walleye specialties. Each of the fish
choices can be prepared sauteed in a
Meuniere sauce, almondine,

Grenoboise, or a la Robinson, which is
named for a patron who always
requested his whitefish sauteed in olive
oil with parsley and French garlic, and
is now a very popular choice.
Janet and Jay Adler also love The
Argonne Supper Club in Charlevoix,

table is ordering shrimp, all-you-can-
eat dinners are available. "We special-
ize in shrimp, but we also serve lob-
ster, crab, whitefish, perch and New
York strip and filet steaks," notes the
manager. The restaurant is open for
dinner only, and does not take reserva-
tions.
In nearby Boyne City,
The Red Mesa Grill
brings Mexico and Latin
America to Northern
Michigan. Mexican
favorites like enchiladas,
burritos and fajitas make
up one side of the menu
while Latin American
entrees such as corn-
roasted walleye, achiote
chicken, black bean
cakes and salmon fill the
other side of the menu.
They are also known for
the margaritas, which
feature a homemade sou
mix, and over 100 tequi-
las from which to
choose. "It's a noisy bar
restaurant that is still
great to bring families
to," says Janet Adler.
They
serve lunch and
'hide, a
dinner
daily, and do not
wateifront
take
reservations.
eatery in Bay
For those who enjoy
the Leelanau peninsula,
the dining is diverse and
delicious. Diane and
which has been around a long time.
Norman Ash of Birmingham bring
"We really like the food. It's not
their family to The Homestead resort
fancy, it's not trendy, and it is very
in Glen Arbor each summer, and a
family oriented," says Janet. "It's been
family destination is always Trattoria
in business for a long time for a good
Funistrada in Burdickville. "It is cre-
reason." The Argonne Supper Club
ative, tasty, casual Italian," says Diane.
specializes in shrimp, steamed or deep-
"We go there every year when we go
fried. Diners can enjoy 6-, 10- or 16-
Up North."
piece dinners, or, if everyone at the
CULINARY DELIGHTS on page 10