Food Hot Time Outside Barbecue means long, slow cooking. ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News M ay is National Barbecue Month. During the summer months here in Michigan, people cook as much outdoors as they do indoors. But while most think they barbecue all summer long, that quick-turning, short-cooking-time, standing-outside-flipping-burgers thing we do is actually grilling. Grilling is also known as "direct" heat or "radi- ant" cooking, because foods are cooked directly over the heat source. When grilling a steak, the tempera- ture can reach close to 700 degrees, especially with some of the fancier gas grills. That means your meat is cooking fast. Barbecuing is usually "indirect" heating, since foods are placed away from the direct heat under- neath. A true barbecue — the stuff made famous in places like Texas, Kentucky and Arkansas, among others — is the long, slow, smoky roasting process you've heard tell about. That's why so many barbecue recipes require hours and hours of cooking at lower temps — between 200-300 degrees generally — to make foods tender. So while you can actually grill on a barbecue, you need to take a few extra steps to barbecue foods on a grill. To barbecue on a traditional grill, it's necessary to actually keep the lid down during the process, cook slowly, and use wood for adding that requisite smoky flavor. Many of us barbecue without even knowing it. Whenever there are ribs or other tough meats — like brisket — on the grill menu, we barbecue them because we know they need the long cooking time for melt-in-your mouth perfection. For charcoal grills, use charcoal on one side of the grill or around the inside perimeter and place the meat on the cool side. For gas grills with two or more burners, keep one burner off and place the meat on the cool side. If you want to add smoky flavor, smoker boxes — inexpensive small metal boxes available at grill shops — are available, or simply fill an aluminum pan with wood chips and water and soak (many wood chip packages include instructions). When the heat dries the wet wood, it begins smoldering and smoking, adding the coveted flavor we seek. For less authentic smoky flavor, you may also add an liquid called "liq- uid smoke" (available in the supermarket spice aisle), to the marinade. This is only a mere morsel on the art that is barbe- cuing, which is fine for our purposes. Just follow the directions in the recipes below for excellent results. DENISE BENAY'S SPICY RUB Denise Benay from West Bloomfield has concoct- ed her own sweet-and-spicy rub. Unlike a mari- nade or sauce, a rub is literally rubbed on raw food. Denise uses this all-purpose rub for every- thing from beef to poultry to fish. For -beef, rub on early; for poultry or fish, rub it on just before cooking. If you'd like, add a bit of olive oil and use the rub as a sauce for vegetables and fish. For less "heat," cut the spices down. Play with the recipe to make it your own. 1/4 cup paprika 1 T. ground black pepper 2 T. kosher salt 2 T. brown sugar 2 T. sugar 1 T. mild or hot chili powder, to taste 2 T. ground cumin 2-3 t. ground cayenne pepper, to taste Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and whisk well. Spread rub over all sides of meat, poultry or fish. Cover the food with plastic wrap and chill several hours to overnight for beef, and up to a half-hour for chicken or fish. Makes about 2 cups of rub. ANNABEL'S QUICK RUB 2 T. mild chili powder 3 T. paprika 1 T. granulated garlic 1 T. kosher salt 1 t. ground cumin 2 t. ground black pepper Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and whisk well. Spread rub over all sides of meat, poultry or fish. Cover the food with plastic wrap and chill several hours to overnight for beef, and up to a half-hour for chicken or fish. Makes about 1 cup of rub. BARBECUE BEEF BRISKET This isn't your bubbie's brisket. This is hot and spicy, so serve it with cool slaw or a crisp green salad. While most barbecue briskets are cooked with the fat, we've eliminated most of it for ease of preparation and serv- ing. 1 5-pound flat-cut beef brisket, fat trimmed Beer Basting Sauce: 1 can (12 oz.) beer, any type 1/3 cup red wine vinegar 1/3 cup vegetable oil 1 T. Worcestershire sauce 1 T. soy sauce 1 T. minced garlic 1 T. brown sugar Spread dry rub (Anabel's Quick Rub above) all over brisket (about 1 cup of rub is sufficient). Place the beef in a nonreactive container large enough to hold it and covered with plastic wrap or a large zipper-style bag and chill 6 hours to overnight. Make the basting sauce: Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl or jar with a tight fitting lid and whisk or shake well. Set aside. Heat barbecue, smoker or grill with lid to 200 250F (follow manufacturer's instructions) adding soaked wood chips as desired. Place the beef on the grate and cover with the lid (if using a grill, cook the meat on the cool side and keep the grill covered). Cook for about 6- 7 hours, turning beef 2 3 times. Set aside 1 1/2 cups of basting sauce. Use remaining sauce to brush on the beef and barbecue for 1-2 hours more, until the meat is very tender. Remove the beef from the heat, allow to cool for about 10 minutes before slicing the brisket thinly, across the grain. Serve hot, with the remaining basting sauce on the side. Makes 8 12 servings. - - - HOT TIME on page 78 5/ 9 2003 77