ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News P esachdik breakfasts are the best. Of all the meals we eat throughout the day, breakfast is the one in which we crave starchy foods the most. For many, the morning ritual begins with a bowl of cereal or a bagel. Weekends often call for more elaborate breakfasts, often including coffeecake and pan- cakes. This year, public school kids will have nearly the entire week of Passover without school. Many parents take this time off from work as well. That translates into more time for breakfast. For the first time, we now offer great Pesach breakfast foods, often the most neglected of this holiday's meals. The most famous Passover morning food is, of course, matzah brei (pronounced "bry"). Most Jews of Ashkenazi descent remember with fond- ness mornings with this moistened and fried matzah. In fact, of all the traditional Pesach foods, matzah brie is probably the food most people can't wait to eat during the holiday. Like many Jewish foods, there are countless recipes for this favorite. Some call for mere mois- tening of the matzah in water and frying it with a bit of salt and serving.with jam spread over. Others have Americanized it into a pseudo-French toast, complete with egg, milk and cinnamon, and served with maple syrup. Still others will fry onions and add them to the mix for a savory, hot- 4/11 2003 114 from-the-pan treat. Breakfast doesn't end with matzah brei, howev- er. Matzah meal pancakes are earthy and nutty tasting and infinitely versatile. Because leavening agents are taboo (although there are now pesachdik baking sodas), most bread-like foods call for whipped egg whites. The results are extra-fluffy pancakes and light coffeecakes. While beating the whites is an extra step, it's essential for exquisitely airy pastry. Try your hand at some of the breakfast recipes below. With the growing popularity of breakfast foods any time of the day, you may wish to make a dinner of matzah brie or serve either of the cakes for dessert. If you still like the idea of cereal in the morn- ing, the granola recipe is crunchy and healthy, with its abundant nuts, seeds and dried fruit. Of course, you could buy some of the specialty sugary cereals offered for nearly $5 a box, but why? FLUFFY MATZAH MEAL PANCAKES There are numerous recipes for matzah meal pan- cakes. Some call for eggs that aren't separated; some call for adding cottage cheese or any number of ingredients, such as nuts and fresh berries. Feel free to add toasted chopped nuts, blueberries or even a bit of "charoset" to this recipe; that pro- duces a fluffier, less filling pancake. Or serve "as is" with maple syrup or a sprinkling of sugar and cin- namon. 3 large eggs; separated 1/2 t. salt 1 T. sugar 1/2 cup milk, water or orange Juice 3/4 matzah meal vegetable oil for frying Place egg yolks in a medium bowl and whisk well. Add salt, sugar and milk, water or juice and whisk well. Use a spoon to stir in the matzah meal. Let the batter sit for 20 minutes before beginning the next step. Beat the egg whites until stiff, but not dry, and use a rubber spatula to fold into the matzah mix- ture. Heat about 1/4 cup of oil (or less if your skillet is small or very good non-stick) in a large non- stick skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Make a "test" pancake by dropping a tablespoonful of the mixture into the hot oil, using the back of the spoon to shape into a circle. Repeat until you fill the pan. Cook until lightly browned and turn over to cook on the other side. Repeat with all the batter. Serve hot with syrup, jam, powdered sugar, or cinnamon and sugar. Makes 4 servings. MATZAH BREI Matzah brei can be as simple as frying moistened matzah with oil in a skillet, or made into a type of French toast, using egg and milk. Some even add fried onions, lox, cottage cheese, cooked mush- rooms and herbs or a combination of any of these to the mix. This recipe uses matzah soaked in water and mixed with eggs and a bit of sugar and salt. Serve, as above, like pancakes or waffles.