Food Chanukah Traditions You can almost smell the latkes flying in oil this time of year. ith Chanukah in the air — starting Friday night, Nov. 29 — we're about to cele- brate some ages-old traditions. Our Chanukah traditions have transcended the ages from more than 2,000 years ago to the present. Oil lamps are now candles. The menorah, originally a candelabrum with six wells, has metamorphosed into the present-day eight candle Chanukiah. The miracle of the oil has been played out in every symbol from light to latkes. All these traditions — millennia in the making. Many insist Chanukah is for the children. And they're exactly right. It's commanded of us as Jews to retell the stories of miracles to our children and our children's children — because youngsters learn first through play and games and later through study and routine. The very young often associate Chanukah with gifts and food. They may enjoy receiving gelt and playing dreidel, but when done right, they also will learn in amusing and whimsical ways that nes gadol haya sham means "a great miracle hap- pened there." . Through our telling, children hear about how the ancient Jewish Temple was reclaimed after three years of fierce battle and ,against great odds. They learn that the temple was cleansed and rededicated on the 25th day of Kislev and that the Temple's eternal light, the ner tamie4 was relit with a small jug of purified oil — enough oil to burn for just a single day. They also learn about the miracle of the bit of oil that burned brightly for eight days, which is why we celebrate Chanukah for eight days. Every time you fry latkes and prepare your family's traditional foods for the holiday, your children are actively storing some wonderful Chanukah memo- ries, to be rekindled again and again. Essential Potato Latkes, Sweet Potato Latkes and Ginger Pearsauce latke batter is too watery — you'll know if the egg mixfure spreads beyond the potato mix- ture — you may need to add a little flour, matzah meal or breadcrumbs to the batter to soak up the extra moisture.) Working in batches, fry the remaining batter. Serve the latkes immediately; or, to keep warm until needed, place them on a paper towel-lined baking sheet in an oven set to 250F. Makes 24-30 latkes. - ESSENTIAL POTATO LATKES This is a very basic version, with pure potato flavor and a hint of onion. Omit the onion for the kiddies. 2 pounds peeled Russet or Idaho potatoes (this is after peeled weight) 1 cup finely chopped onion 2 eggs 1 t. kosher salt, or to taste 1/2 t. ground black pepper, or to taste Vegetable oil for frying Using a hand grater or a food processor fitted with a shredding disk, grate the potatoes. (Extra long shreds from the processor disk may be chopped or pulsed in the processor.) Transfer the potatoes to a large colander and allow to become dark. Rinse off the potatoes well, moving them around with your hands until they are white again. Use your hands to press as much liquid from the potatoes as possible (the drier they are, the better). Transfer the potatoes to a bowl and stir in the onions, eggs, salt and pepper. Make a test latke: Heat 1/8-inch of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over high heat until the oil is hot but not smoking. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the mixture into the hot oil. Spread the mixture into a round with a fork or the tip of a spoon. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the bottom of the latke is golden, about 5 minutes. Turn the latke over and cook until it is golden on the other side. Drain the latke on a baking sheet lined with sever- al layers of paper toweling. Taste youf test latke for seasoning. Adjust the amount of salt and pepper if necessary. (Note: If the SWEET POTATO LATKES 1 1/2 pounds peeled sweet potatoes or yams (this is after peeled weight) 1 cup chopped red or Bermuda onion 1/3 cup all-purpose flour 3 eggs 1 t. kosher salt or to taste 1/2 t. black pepper Vegetable oil for frying. Using a hand grater or food processor fitted with a shred- ding disk, grate the potatoes (Extra long shreds from the processor disk may be chopped or pulsed in the processor.) Transfer the potatoes to a bowl and stir in the onions, eggs, salt and pepper. Make a test latke: Heat 1 /8-inch of oil in a large nonstick skillet over high heat until the oil is hot but not smoking. Working in batches, spoon 2 tablespoons of the mixture into the hot oil. Spread the mixture into a round with a fork or the tip of a spoon. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the bottom of the latke is golden, about 5 minutes. Turn the latke over and cook until it is golden on the other side. Taste your test latke for seasoning. Adjust the amount of salt and pepper if necessary. (Note: If the latke batter is too watery — you'll know if the egg mixture spreads beyond the potato mixture — you may need to add a little flour, matzah meal or bread- crumbs to the batter to soak up the extra moisture.) Working in batches, fry the remaining batter. Serve the latkes immediately; or, to keep warm until needed, place them on a paper towel-lined baking oA 11/22 2002 87