An assortment of sushi: Cucumber Maki, Tuna Temaki and Salmon Nigiri If You Knew Sushi Surprise guests with your own homemade Japanese "fast food." ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News A mericans love sushi. It's clean tasting, light, flavorful and satisfies our collective culinary curiosity for differ- ent tastes. To many, sushi is a food ordered only at restaurants. It seems so exotic and difficult to make. Sushi counters are a study of unusual ingredients and scary raw fish. But in Japan, sushi is the fast food. Certainly, "really "fine" sushi is, like most cooking, an art. A sushi chef— like French pastry chefs, pasta chefs, bread makers and so forth — trains and apprentices for years before 'becoming a shokunin or master sushi chef. However, sushi is easily made at home. And unless you're extremely well versed on the nuances of exceptional sushi, your homemade version will be most pleasing and quite acceptable. But first, a few words about sushi: Some say sushi starts with raw fish. Others insist that sushi is the general word meaning "fermented foods" in Japanese. Indeed, the iirst sushi was made with salted or fermented fish. The word sushi, however, begins with su, the Japanese word for "vine- gar," and ends with a short form of meshi, the common word for "cooked rice." Thus, the main ingredient of sushi is short-grained cooked rice that is seasoned with sweet rice vinegar and sometimes mirin, sweetened cooking sake or rice wine. This mixture is the foundation of sushi. The rice is combined with raw or cooked fish, sliced thinly, and wrapped (or not) in nori, dark green (almost black) sheets of thin, dried seaweed. In many cases, fresh vegetables and avoca- do are introduced to the sushi to pro- vide a variety of flavor and eye appeal. Although there are regional styles of sushi, two are considered the most popular: kansai, originating in the Kansai region of Japan (the city of Osaka is here), and edo, or Tokyo-style sushi. Different Types Kansai sushi is rolled and "packaged" in seaweed. The most popular type is maki (rolls) and temaki (also called "hand rolls," these are stuffed seaweed "cones"). Edo sushi is generally a rice rectangle topped with a small slice of raw fish. This style is also called nigiri. A third type of sushi (which by defini- tion is not sushi at all) is known as sashimi, which is simply chilled, raw seafood, cut into thin slices. Most sushi is served accompanied by thin slices of pickled ginger, or gari, and a small amount of wasabi, an extremely hot Japanese horseradish that's mixed into a small amount of shoyu (Japanese soy sauce). While gin- ger cleanses the palate, the soy-wasabi mixture serves as extra seasoning for the sushi. The following are sushi basics. They include making sushi rice and assem- bling three types of sushi. It's of utmost importance to remember that any raw fish must be very fresh, so do your research. Use the rice recipe for all sushi and vary the fillings to make your favorite combinations. There's also a list of popular sushi fish choices (all kosher). Or use your own favorites. I've also listed some of the most popular restau- rant sushi combinations. Don't stress sushi preparation, because even if yours don't come out perfect the first time, the taste will still be delicious. In fact, in Japan, there are stands that sell sushi rice with the sushi "ingredients" sprinkled over the top. So you see, it's hard to make a mistake. Now that you know the basics, get rolling. Then pass around hot towels to wipe your hands before eating and have fun. Many sushi ingredients are available these days at the supermarket. If you . can't find what you want or need, go to an Asian food market. Here's a list of basics. • Bamboo mat, for rolling sushi • Short-grain. or sushi rice, for making sushi rice • Japanese rice vinegar • Shoyu (Japanese soy sauce), garnish • Nori (seaweed sheets) • Gari (pickled ginger slices), garnish • Wasabi (spicy, hot, green Japanese horseradish), garnish • Mayonnaise, or Japanese-style may- onnaise • Salt • Sugar • Sesame seeds, for sprinkling over rice before adding other ingredients or as garnish • Eggs, for making into thin omelets • Hot chili sauce, for spicy rolls Assorted vegetables ••Cucumber, red bell pepper and car- rots, cut into matchstick pieces • Assorted sprouts, such as bean, radish, alfalfa, spicy • Scallions, cut into 2 to 3-inch lengths • Fresh chives or cilantro • Avocado Common Sushi Fish Varieties . Here are a few of the most popular types of fish to use for sushi: Figure on about a half-pound to make 6-8 maki 10/25 2002 97