side Fat-free is still in season as we turn to the warmth of comfort foods. ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News ighlights: Veal and chicken piccante and marsala,steak sicilian create your own and specialty pasta dishes, signature Tara house-made gelato desserts. Vegetarian Choices: House specialty eggplant parmigiana, fre .``: .grilled or al cartoccio, whitefish siciliana. 'Atmosphere: Casual yet upscale atmosphere with Mediterra n aln Who Eats There: Brings in e W e kn ight empty nesters, couples, family celebrations, business and birthday lunches. , 'Service: Our waiter., Jason, was Very knowledgeable and offered to ask the kitchen to prepare the dishes to our specific tastes. ''Price Range: Moderate for a white tablecloth restaurant. Dinner for WE EAT 0 11 aod 104 : Made Kosher in Michigan! Nothing 'Fishy' About This Herring's Popularity etroit's Sea Fare Foods continue to satisfy the demand for the ever-popular fillet of herring hors d'oeuvres. Sold under the Ma Cohen's and Sea Fare labels, herring in wine sauce and herring in cream sauce, staples at bar mitzvah luncheons and other parties, remain the company's best sellers. Yet Sea Fare Foods, founded more than 40 years D all is an extremely sneaky season. First it appears quite friendly. Days get crisp, eventu- ally nippy; then suddenly cold. Leaves turn appealing colors of sien- na, auburn and bright red — so lovely to look at. A drive down a neighborhood street stirs up clouds of these fallen icons and the ground crunches beneath our steps. There's the ubiq- uitous smell of smoke in the air that's appealing — like the smell of grilling. We know that someone's ago and manage now y thd third generation of the Sack • family, also introduces new .products to meet the changing tastes of today's kosher cot). sumers. Its latest varieties are herring in wine with dill and herring in horseradish sauce. Sampling the herrings, the wine with dill had a refreshing taste, but we found the new horseradish sauce too tangy and thick. The herring in cream sauce was still our favorite. Add some sliced apples. and it makes a great appetizer or brunch dish. Sea Fare is an importer, packer and processor that - PASTRIES on page 104 burning leaves illegally, but we won't tell because we like the essence — both literally and figura- tively. It reminds us of childhood. Then it happens. One drenching rain and the multi-hued foliage is no longer suspended, but turns brown and soggy, stuck to the ground and disallowing the sun's penetration to the solar-starved lawn. We begin wearing sweaters to bed and curse the five o'clock dark- ness. We want to be warm. Now is the time to eat warm, robust-flavored and textured foods. Under layers of clothes, we forget our diets and opt for creamy this and that, at the cost of spiraling fat grams. Can we eat to both our mind's, and heart's, content — and still maintain our weight? The optimistic answer is "yes." The trick is to fool ourselves, that lean can be luscious. That creamy can be light and that we can live without the extra cheese topping. Short of stews and soups, we don't need to eat with a spoon to get the warmth of comfort foods. Look to a sprinkle of bread- crumbs over pasta and vegetables instead of the beguiling grated cheese. Braise in fat-free yogurt or broth instead of sauteing in butter or oil. Where a recipe calls for cream, use fat-free evaporated milk or fat-free half-and-half. Eat beef, eat legumes, go ahead and eat pota- toes and other starchy foods. Just NIPPY on page 104 M 10/18 2002 103