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Catering For All Occasions

In "Let Us Eat Cake," food writer/critic
Sharon Boorstin explores the power of cooking and
food in establishing bonds among women.

JUDY BART KANCIGOR
Special to the Jewish News

11 ournalism 101, Rule No. 1. The
interview is about the intervie-
wee, not about you. Ask a ques-
tion, then shut up and listen.
Obviously the instructor
never met Sharon Boorstin,
who is as interested in you
LET
as you are in her. No, really.
My list of questions goes
out the window.
With Boorstin you bond.
The noted restaurant critic
and food writer is already
collecting food memories
and recipes for a sequel to

41

Let Us Eat Cake: Adventures
in Food and Friendship
(ReganBooks/HarperCollins;
326 pp.; $24.95), her tantalizing
memoir — recipes included — of food,
family and friendship, and we're
invited to share. (E-mail her at
sharonboorstin@aol.com .)
"I'm fascinated by women and their
relationships with their mothers and
grandmothers and where they came
from," she says. "I grew up in a family
obsessed with food. With women's lib
everything changed, and I wanted to
explore how women's attitudes toward
cooking and food changed as well."
She shows me a loose-leaf bulging
with recipes, some handwritten, some
on yellowed newsprint, dating back
three decades to her newlywed days. The
discovery of that long-forgotten note-
book and the memories it recalled were
the catalyst behind Let Us Eat Cake.
Every recipe told a story: the
brandied stuffed chicken legs she
and friend Laurie slaved over to
woo two brothers, a doctor and a
lawyer (they never called back), the
signature Canlis Salad from
Seattle's best restaurant, her
Yiddish-speaking grandmother's
blintzes, her mom's legendary egg-
bread stuffing.

Commonalities

Click Shop

7/26
2002

78

jewaltcom

"Food is actually a
really good bond-

ing thing. Everyone has it in common,
and women talk about it easily," says
Boorstin. 'And I have the most fun
talking to Jewish women, because they
get it right away.
"They have all these stories and light
up when they talk about their grand-
mothers."
Despite the differences
in our backgrounds —
EAT CAKE
Boorstin grew up in the
"boonies" outside of Seattle
where she and her sisters
were the only Jewish kids
in class; I was raised in a
Jewish "ghetto" in a New
York suburb — I found
myself saying "me too!" on
almost every page: growing
up in the '50s; the angst
6A1:00 BOW'i,STIN
about boys; the love-hate
relationship with food and obsession
with dieting; the deep emotional con-
nection with women friends; the ease
of friendship in our 50s.
"You have what you've gone through
together, what you have in common,
and let go of old resentments," she
says. "Life is precious, and you don't
want to be petty."
OK, Boorstin's mom wore Revlon's
Fire and Ice while mine wore Cherries
in the Snow, but we shared the same
"longing" as we downed our Preludin
diet pills, willingly dispensed by our
family doctors, to squeeze .ourselves
into our Merry Widows.
In the '50s, you learned cooking to

Author
Sharon Boorstin:
"When we
entertain now,
we do it with
less effort, and
we cook —
and savor food
— because we
find it enjoyable,
nurturing and
creative."

Mom's
Egg-Bread
Stuffing

(Enough for a 20-pound turkey
with some left over to bake in a
casserole.)

This is a recipe that cries out for
improvisation, for you can toss in
just about anything that adds
crunch and perhaps a bit of
sweetness, and it will taste good.
Just be sure you use egg bread as
your base.
It is also a recipe for which it is
difficult to give precise measure-
ments. Taste and adjust the ingre-
dients and seasonings for flavor
and texture.

4 to 5 loaves sliced egg bread,
crusts removed
3 to 4 big onions, chopped
1 stick pareve margarine
1 bunch celery, chopped
2 cups chopped mushrooms
each turkey giblet, heart
and liver, chopped
1 to 2 tablespoons poultry sea-
soning
1 to 2 tablespoons salt
pepper to taste
1 to 1 1/2 cups sliced water
chestnuts, ,well drained
2 to 3 Pippin or Granny Smith
apples, chopped
1 to 1 1/2 cups dried cranber-
ries or chopped dried apricots
2 carrots, chopped (optional)
1 cup sunflower seeds or
chopped walnuts or almonds
(optional)
4 eggs, beaten
3 to 4 cups chicken broth, at
room temperature

N v ,

1. Cut the bread into cubes
about 1 1/2 inches square. Set
aside for a day or two, so that they
dry out, tossing occasionally, or
toast them lightly in a 350°F
oven, until they are crisp but not
brown.

2. In a. large, heavy pan over
medium heat, saute the onions in \\
the pareve margarine until they
are soft, about 10 to 15 minutes.
Stir frequently-and be sure the
onions do not burn. Add the cet-L
erv, mushrooms, giblet, heart,
liver and seasOnincis and cook over \\

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