Cover Story te SPIRITUAL JOURNEY And the phone's not bad either. from page 19 Leningrad, that were pillaged from the Jews when Russia invaded Poland, adds Rabbi Silberberg. Al Gore, however, was able to bring one manuscript back after his visit to Russia as vice president, the librarian says. And only last month, Russian President Vladimir Putin returned 10 more to the Jews as a goodwill gesture. Free ear bud with new activation on plans $29.99 and higher. Hurry and get a FREE* 3 .. 1 20t i,‘i-ione when you make a $20 onation to Special Olympics d donation Never pay long distance or roaming again. •Yoke . Wireless. Internet-ready •Text Messaging Cat>able • Discreet VibraCall'Alert *after 3 550 mail-in rebate and with 2-year service agre:emen Cingutar Nation Plans t Monthly)0.0 ,/ t Access A , MOTOROLA Included Minutes 9 500 350- 250 Exploring The 'Hood Before feasting at a kosher Chinese restaurant, the group is given time to shop in Crown Heights. "I felt I should yell 'Action!" says Goodman, of his first visit to Crown Heights, which seems to him like the movie set of an old Jewish neighbor- hood, with its small barbershops, stores selling Judaica and groups of people who stop and talk on the streets. Myrna Shanker says Crown Heights is not a terrific neighborhood by West Bloomfield standards, "but it has an appeal for me of that shtetl experience. And Boro Park is like being back on Dexter Avenue in Detroit. The liveli- ness, the shopping, the kids playing in the streets — it's a life that smacks of sweeter times." Chaya Sara Silberberg, who grew up in Boro Park, says she misses the hum of a Jewish community and being able to send a kid out for a loaf of bread. But she doesn't miss the area's noise and dirt. So how did she and Rabbi Silberberg, born in the Bronx, get to Detroit? Rabbi Silberberg says when he was studying at the Lubavitch Kollel, the institute for advanced Jewish study in Crown Heights, he got offers to go to places like Argentina, Mexico and Michigan. He went to the Rebbe for guidance, who said he should go to West Bloomfield. So Rabbi Silberberg became the first full-time Orthodox rabbi in that area. A long day gets even longer after shopping and eating in Crown Heights and then dancing at a wed- ding party later that evening. Yet it is the visit to the ohel, the Rebbe's grave, that people come back t _ o in conversation. "I like sharing this experience. Like sharing wealth, I enjoy when I share religion," says Marty Goodman. "And watching all of you on this trip makes me cherish what I have even more ... It's a difficult and scary world, but coming here — we have the calm of knowing it's God's world." send' ext mess- egos - to war facrely and trierds natiortwide. Nc;' (134:r 10-digit frObk phOnt,