Cover Story Spiritual Journey Pilgrimage to Lubavitcher Rebbe's grave and Crown Heights deepens Detroiters' connection to Judaism and to God. . Mzckey Shanker and other guests at the gravesite of the Rebbe. SHARON LUCKERMAN Staff Writer New York City xcitement takes over as 13 people ages 13-60 get ready to board a plane for a two-day visit to Queens and Brooklyn. At the top of their agenda is a visit to the ohel (tent) or gravesite of the revered late Rebbe Menachem Mendel Schneerson, the sev- enth and last great Lubavitcher Rebbe. The group also will see the Chabad Lubavitch World Headquarters in Brooklyn's Crown Heights as well as nearby Boro Park, which has the largest concentration of Orthodox Jews in the world. Here, they will shop, celebrate a wedding and take in the Jewish atmosphere. It's all part of an annual pilgrimage Rabbi Elimelech Silberberg makes with members of his Sara Tugman Bais Chabad Torah Center in West Bloomfield. The rabbi's wife, Chaya Sara Silberberg, cradles her siddur (prayer book) for a moment to wave hello, then quietly finishes her morning prayers, moving from side to side and back and forth in a less-crowded area at the airport gate. Her husband clearly is the only Lubavitcher, with his character- istic long beard and traditional capata (black coat) and black fedora. A passerby might not guess the others in the group are members of his synagogue. The men wear leisure clothes, a few don baseball and cow- boy hats. The women, modestly covered,.dress comfortably in summer outfits. In fact, most in the group are not Lubavitcher Jews, but "friends of theirs," says Steve Fink, 52, of West Bloomfield, a synagogue member making the trip. "We folloW a lot of the customs of Lubavitchers, and most people at the shul are baalei teshuvah [non-observant Jews who become observant]," he adds. "I call myself a very big friend of Lubavitchers," says Marty Goodman, 55, of West Bloomfield, who teaches classes at Bais Chabad. "The rabbi calls me a Chasid." That is someone who is "a model of fidelity to Torah and who has humility, happiness and spiritual fervor," says Rabbi Silberberg. "I daven [pray] in the shul. But I don't put on tefillin like a Lubavitcher because my dad put it on Sephardic," Goodman adds. "But I follow the E 7/12 2002 14 dictates of the Rebbe [as Lubavitchers refer to Menachem Mendel Schneerson] and study his works. He's had a profound effect on my life." Goodman explains that the Rebbe helped him to become a better person. "My whole attitude toward life has changed since meeting the Rebbe," he says. "I've become more a giver and less a taker. Like in business, I want everyone to be bet- ter than me. I'm not concerned with me being the greatest, but making my business as good as I can. I'm no better than others, and I don't swear or gossip." The other travelers at the airport include Goodman's wife, Dale, and son, Ian, 23; Kenny Borin of West Bloomfield; Dr. Jeff Klein of Southfield; Ron Miller and son, Daniel, 14, of West Bloomfield, and their friend BrUce Stein of Southfield; Mickey and Myrna Shanker of West Bloomfield; and Mitch Singer, and son, Nathan, 18, of Saginaw. Though Rabbi Silberberg takes congregants and guests to the Rebbe's gravesite in Queens two or three times a year, there's a special feeling about going around the time of the Rebbe's yahrzeit, which fell on June 13 this year and marked the eighth anniversary of his death. More than 19,000 people from all over the world visited the Rebbe's gravesite on that day, yet many continued to come through the weekend — as many as 1,000 to 2,000 a day, says Rabbi Abba Refson who oversees the house, tent and gravesite, which is open 24 hours a day, every day. Cult Or Righteous Man? To outsiders — even other Jews — visiting the Rebbe's grave evokes critical reactions, and travel- ing with Lubavitchers raises eyebrows. Many worry that this worship of the Rebbe bor- ders on idolatry or seems like a cult. Chabad Lubavitch-is a Chasidic Orthodox Jewish sect founded by the Baal Shem Tov (Rabbi Yisrael ben Eliezer) in Eastern Europe in the 1700s. Chabad is an acronym from the Hebrew