N ELIZABETH APPLEBAUM AppleTree Editor of just any chocolate sauce would do. It had to be Fox's U-Bet. The seltzer came straight from a blue-glass bottle. And who knew from low-fat milk or skim milk back then? No, the only thing that would do was the real McCoy: rich, thick, makes-your- mouth-water-just-to-think-about- it cream. Mix them together and you had an authentic egg cream. Egg creams were Granny's spe- cialty. She loved fixing them and her grandson, Henry, loved drink- ing them. "Oh, yes," he says now, wistful- ly, when the subject of egg creams comes up. Today, that same Henry is Dr. Henry Sonenshein of West Bloomfield. And his new book, Silverware Grew in Her Garden, celebrates not only the egg creams of days gone by, but the corner baseball games, the dried raspber- ries that were supposed to lower a temperature, the neighborhood where just about everyone was your pal and the noisy synagogues of New York, filled with the smells of tobacco and Bay Rum after- shave and snuff. In his self-published text, Dr. Sonenshein, a retired specialist in ear, nose and throat, and head and neck, tells about his life in Brooklyn in the 1940s through 1960s, and of the boy's love for his grandmother. The doctor says he and Granny were very close. "And she was such an interesting character" that it wasn't difficult for him to write an entire book filled with stories from her life. Granny's real name was Sarah Fergeson (her last name, Dr. Sonenshein says, was the result of a misunderstanding when Sarah and her husband passed through Ellis Island in New York Harbor). She was born in Poland and immi- grated with her husband, Abe, to the United States, settling in New York. Sarah and Abe lived for a time with their daughter's family, includ- ing Henry, and for a time at a near- by apartment. Their grandson was with Sarah almost every day. wv.".:ir:',... ;';' .,:0!•.;;:fW,•.' , ' .V..... ;:.. > , , ..,-,. :,... •,.: la0,,,''':' a ranny never gave in if an argument was not going her way. She ended it with statements like, "You don't agree with me?-.So sue me," or she'd shrug and walk away saying, "Go fight city hall!" Arguing with her was like klopping der kop in der vant, which means "beat- ing your head against a wall." She was not a proficient counter puncher but she never went down for the count, either. She refrained from person- al curses. The words "He should drop dead!" or "Go to hell!" never were spoken by her or allowed in her pres- ence. I remember one day we went with Granny to the fish market and an argument ensued when she caught Mr. Bender the fishmonger with his thumb on the - scale as he weighed her fish order. "Mister, how much cost the fish and how much is the thumb?" she shouted. He denied that he cheated and called her a fishwife. She did not offer a curse in return but simply answered him by saying, "Your mamma would be ashamed of you," as we stepped out of his shop. Her special curse, held in reserve for people guilty of truly heinous acts, such as desecrating the synagogue, cursing the Chosen People, committing murder or wish- ing harm upon her family, she chanted like a mantra: "All his teeth should fall out but one, and in that tooth he should have a toothache." Dr. Henry Sonenshein: A neighborhood long ago, with memories of garlic and a loving grandmother. 6/14 2002 95