Arts Entertainment

The Best Of Everything

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Indelible Delis

The corned beef and pastrami are just part of why
we loved those yesteryear spots.

ENJOY GREAT PAN-ASIAN CUISINE LIKE

RAYMOND WONG

MADE FOR YOU AT WONG'S KITCHEN
IN WINDSOR!
Superb Oriental Dining Excellence
Without Equal Anywhere!

•Delicious Whole Lobsters ... (4-6-8 Pounds)
•Hand-Rolled Egg and Spring Rolls!
•Crispy Chicken, Shrimp and Beef!
•Tasty Unbeatable Vegetarian Dishes!

• Pan Seared Sea Bass

• Mongolian Beef

•Pan Seared Yellow Fin
Tuna
•Pan-Seared Salmon
with Shitake Sauce
• Emperor Beef
•Baby Back Ribs

•Kung Po Chicken

•Spicy Garlic
Shrimp, Scallop
or Squid

•Almond Boneless Chicken

•Spicy Garlic Seafood

•Sesame Chicken or Beef

•Spicy Garlic Chicken

• Sweet & Sour Ribs
or Chicken

• Stuffed Jalapenos
with Shrimp Paste

Just A Sample Of Our Fabulous Menu!

Woodward,

One Block South of 14 Mile Rd.,
(on the East Side of Woodward • Former Juke Box Location)
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

Mon. - Thurs., 11-11 • Friday, 11-12 midnight • Sat., 12-12 • Sun., 12-10

(248)554.8600

• Liquor • Specialty Drinks
• Wine List • Scotch & Martini Menus

5/24

2002

74

he old, established deli-
reached out into regions that seemed
catessens tended to derive
so improbable before.
their atmospheres from
Equally scattered, unfortunately,
their management ... usual- were the traditions that once were
ly found working behind the
the cornerstone of any deli-
catessen's menu ... With a
counter, swapping family
community that no longer
gossip with a customer buy-
demanded adherence to cus-
ing salami to take home ...
tom, .a delicatessen was
and their patrons ... for
more or less compelled to
whom shouting was a nor-
reach out and pull in eaters
mal tone of voice and kibitz-
of non-delicatessen fare in
ing ran rampant ... rather
order to survive ... Thus it
than expensive decor and
was that we saw such items
scientifically planned lay-
D ANN
as seafood, hamburgers and
outs.
RA SKIN
ham and cheese sandwiches
One did not get the
Local Columnist on menus where formerly
impression so frequently
they dared not rear their
given by the newer eateries
heads.
... that so much capital was
Delicatessens used to have
invested in generating ambi-
regular customers ... who based their
ence, that little was left over to buy
decision to eat there more on force
proper ingredients for the meals.
of habit and familiarity with the staff
In fact, it would have come as no
then gustatory considerations.
surprise to anyone if such delis were
Certainly, there were differences ...
to enjoy a revival next time a "new"
Katz's, on Nine Mile and Coolidge
trend in restaurants is needed ...
in Oak Park, was a throbbing
more exotic trends have been known
lunchtime spot, where ex-Detroiters
to sweep the town ... and a little old-
could meet people they hadn't
fashioned deli could really
seen in years over a bowl
be a fascinating place.
of homemade chicken
Touring the local
soup or a corned
Jewish deli-
beef sandwich ...
catessens from
Stage, also on
years ago is not
Nine and
quite the same
Coolidge in Oak
awesome task
Park, had a slight-
as it would
ly glitzier, more
be in New
"restaurant-y"
York City ...
atmosphere,
In fact, the
and more of a
diner in
business lunch
search of the
clientele ... At
consummate
Hy
corned beef
Horenstein's,
sandwich or
on 10 Mile
pastrami per-
and Coolidge,
fection, would
in Oak Park's
find more simi-
Dexter-Davison
larities than dif-
Shopping Center, you could watch
ferences in the Detroit area eateries
whatever sporting event was on the
purveying this particular brand of
tube, and eat in relative peace and
cuisine.
quiet.
It was a problem when the Jewish
Venturing over to Fenkell near
community of the Detroit area, once
Wyoming, was the granddaddy of
firmly defined by such streets as
them all in the neighborhood,
Hastings, Dexter and Linwood and
Modern Deli ... Here, it was still
Nine Mile and Coolidge, became
possible to order your corned beef
scattered into a sort of diaspora that