Food Food Rice is a delicious staple all over the world. ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News I n Asia, growing and eating rice is a religious, symbolic and mythical experience. In fact, a big part of the world — more than half the popula- tion — eats rice for practically every meal. In Italy, it's an entree in the form of Risotto, and ends a meal sweetly as a pudding when cooked with milk and sugar. The classic Spanish dish Paella starts with rice. Every other ingredient is left to interpreta- tion. The same is true in Brazil where the national dish, Feijoada (black bean stew), is nothing unless served on a bed of steaming white rice. Though there are three main types of rice, there are thousands of varieties. And it doesn't grow white. White rice is the result of milling, which removes the darker outer coating and healthy bran. Brown rice is the whole grain, bran and all. Wild rice, the long, hard, dark brown grains we see most often in the fall, is not actually rice, but a grass native to North America. Like many grains, rice can be processed into thou- sands of products, from wine, to vinegar to flour. There's even a sweetener that's made from brown rice. It's a thick syrup with the texture of honey. While volumes may be written about all the different flavors, varieties and cooking methods of this staple grain, the following recipes touch on a few of the inter- national methods of cooking specific types of rice. RISOTTO WITH MOREL AND BUTTON MUSHROOMS May/June is morel season. Fresh morels are available in the produce aisle. If you can't find them fresh, use dried mushrooms, which can be reconstituted with hot water, or other fresh or dried wild mushrooms. 1/4 cup olive oil 2 T. minced shallots 2 t. minced garlic 1 cup fresh morel mushrooms, cut into thin rings 2 cups sliced button or white mushrooms 1 cup uncooked Arborio rice (or other Risotto rice) 1/2 cup dry white wine 6 cups vegetable or chicken broth 1/2 - 1 cup fresh grated Parmesan cheese Kosher salt and pepper to taste 1/4 cup minced chives or fresh parsley, garnish Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and garlic and saute for about 2 min- utes. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasion- ally, until the mushrooms give up their liquid. Add the rice and cook, stirring, about 1 minute more. Add the wine and cook the rice, stirring frequently, until all the liquid is absorbed. Meanwhile, bring the broth to a boil in another saucepan and reduce heat to medium-low. Pour 1 cup of the broth into the rice and simmer, stirring frequently, until the liquid is almost absorbed. Add another cup of broth and repeat. Add the last cup of broth and cook while stirring until the rice has a creamy texture (it's important to cook the rice slowly and at low heat; the rice should cooked, but still have "bite"). Add half the cheese and salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot, with remaining cheese on the side and sprinkled with the chives or parsley. Makes 6 servings. LEMON JASMINE WITH PEAS, ALMONDS AND ORANGE ZEST 3 cups water 1 1/2 cups Jasmine rice, rinsed and drained 1/2 t. salt 3 T. olive oil 1/4 cup almond slivers 1 cup fresh cooked peas or frozen peas, thawed (do not used canned) 1 cup chopped scallions, white and green parts Juice of 1/2 lemon 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley 2 T. grated orange zest or peel Salt and pepper to taste Bring water, Jasmine rice and salt to a boil over high heat in a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until water is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside. While the rice is cooking, heat olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the almonds and cook, stirring constantly until the almonds are golden. Transfer the rice to a large bowl and break it apart with a fork. Add the peas, scallions, lemon juice, pars- ley, orange zest, salt and pepper and toss to combine. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 8 servings. WILD RICE LATKES Serve these as appetizers or as a side dish. 2 cups water 1/2 cup wild rice 2 eggs 1/2 cup minced onions 1/2 cup minced red bell pepper 1 T. dried parsley flakes 1/4 t. salt or to taste 1/4 t. ground black pepper, or to taste 1/4 cup vegetable oil Sour cream, to serve on the side, optional Salsa, to serve on the side, optional Bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Meanwhile, rinse the rice under cold water and drain. Stir the rice into the boiling water and bring to a boil again. Reduce heat to a low boil and cook, uncovered, until the rice is tender, about 40-45 min- 5/17 2002 93