Food

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other side of the world when it's fall
here.) But, fresh lamb just tastes bet -
ter.

ANNABEL COHEN
Special to the Jewish News

S

pring lamb. It's what you hear
about in the food world come
March each year.
It could be because lambs,
traditionally, are born in late winter and
the best chops and legs are available
when the animals are a mere four- to
eight-weeks old. Although, technically, a
lamb is a lamb until it's a year old,
what's considered the best, most tender
and sweet-tasting cuts are from the little
ones, fed for their short lives on meadow
grass and other naturally growing wild
herbs.
Lamb has a long history in Jewish cul-
ture. Abraham was a shepherd. The first
Passovers, and still in most Sephardic
communities, were feasts of lamb.
Offered as sacrifice and sustenance,
lamb was a cause for celebration. Unlike
restaurants offering pounds of meat as a
single portion, lamb, and other meats,

were special, a small morsel a gift on a
special occasion.
Like veal, spring lamb, in essence, is
significantly more subtle than its older
comrade, mutton. And it's pink, with
redolence that's unmistakable, yet not
heady like older lamb or mutton.
Walk into a real Greek or
Mediterranean restaurant and it's
there. That aroma of lamb cooking
on a spit or sizzling on an open grill
is unmistakable.
Lamb isn't about disguising; it's all
about embellishment. Fresh lamb needs
little seasoning, a sprinkle of salt and
pepper and garlic, to taste. Some cooks
cut thin slits in lamb legs and imbed
whole cloves of fresh garlic. Many will
cook with rosemary, equally fragrant but
not overpowering. For lesser cuts of
lamb, a stew is a wonderful answer.
You can get lamb year-round.
Restaurants and markets utilize scientific
breeders and their excellent freezing
techniques (after all it's spring on the

m

made with a yeast dough, much like
thin-crust pizza. This version uses
commercially available pita bread, so
it's quick and easy as an appetizer or
SHORTCUT MOROCCAN
for a light lunch. Though Armenians
LAMB STEW
eat this topped with thick plain
Normally, you would brown the meat . yogurt, it's delicious on its own.
before making the stew. This short-cut
12 pita breads (with or without
version cuts out that step. The cooked • pockets), about 8 inches in diameter
onions, however, give the stew a sweet
Topping:
flavor. If you're really in a hurry, you
2 pounds ground lamb
may skip this step as well and combine 2 cups finely chopped onions
all the stew ingredients in a big pot
1 t. minced garlic
and cook it slowly.
1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup. finely chopped bell pepper,
3 cups chopped onions
any color
1 T. minced garlic
1 can (14 oz.) diced tomatoes
2 T. fresh minced gingerroot
2 t. kosher salt
4 pounds lamb stew meat
1/8 t. ground cayenne pepper
2 t. kosher salt teaspoon salt
1/8 t. ground black pepper
1 t. coarse ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 400E Combine all
1 t. ground cinnamon
topping ingredients in bowl and mix
1 t. ground cumin
well. Spread- the mixture evenly over
1/2 t. cayenne pepper
the pitas and place each one on a bak-
1 t. coriander seeds
ing sheet. Bake for 15 minutes until
1 t. ground allspice
the meat is cooked through. Serve hot
1 cup orange juice
or at room temperature.
2 T. honey
1 cup yellow or golden raisins
KIFTA KABOBS
water
I remember these ground lamb kabobs
1 cup chopped fresh parsley
in Rabat, the capital city of Morocco.
Heat oil in a large pot over medium- Their aroma filled the small streets.
high heat. Add the onions, garlic and
They were served, stick removed,
ginger root and cook, stirring fre-
wrapped in bread (pita works great)
quently until the vegetables are soft-
and surrounded by a salsa made of
ened.
cucumber, fresh tomato, onion, olive
Meanwhile, place the lamb in a large oil and lemon.
bowl. Mix salt, pepper, cinnamon,
It's best to make these on thicker
cumin, cayenne pepper, coriander and
round skewers, the kind used in the
allspice in a small bowl and stir to
market's butcher department. If you
combine. Sprinkle this mixture over
prefer to fry
\ or bake these, you can
the lamb and toss to coat well.
also do it without the stick, forming
Add the lamb to the softened onion
each into a "hot dog" shape.
mixture and cook, stirring frequently
2 pounds ground lamb (preferably
for 3 minutes. Add the juice, honey
ground twice)
and raisins. Add enough water to just
2 cups ground onions (you can do
cover the meat. Bring the liquid to a
this in a food processor)
boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer
1/4 cup fresh chopped parsley
for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2 T. fresh minced mint leaves
Add parsley and cook for 20 minutes
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
more. Season to taste, with more salt
1/4 t. dried oregano
and pepper if needed, and serve over
1/4 t. ground cumin
rice, potatoes or couscous.
1/4 t. dried basil
1/4 t. ground coriander
QUICK LAMB "PIZZA"
1/4 t. ground ginger
This Armenian-style recipe is normally 1/4 t. cinnamon

4/12
2002

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