Is;tv to New vegetables clot% are the taste of the season. "baby" and spring" are scribbled on signs at the fruit and vegetable market, you may feel tempt- ed to pick up some baby squash or even a pound or two of fresh peas or fava beans. What a way to party! " ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News C omedian Robin Williams once said, "Spring is nature's way of saying, `Let's party!' " Our instincts tell us that the time to fuel for warmth with foods that include in their names "hearty" or "comfort" has passed. An innate sense also moves us, unprovoked, to crave fresh, young vegetables — spring vegetables. Every vegetable of spring is smaller than their full-grown counterparts. It may seem indulgent to eat tiny zuc- chini and baby bell peppers before they've had a chance to grow. Then again, nothing is so sweet as nature's first green. Still other vegetables only make their appearance in spring. Asparagus is decidedly an April/May crop in these parts. Yes they're available all year round, thanks to modern meth- ods of farming and transportation, but the best is homegrown, native to where you live. Only in spring do morel mush- rooms, what food writer Molly O'Neill calls "Mushrooms a la Disney," peak their pocked caps through the forests' leafy floors. And absolutely nothing tastes better than the thin-skinned baby new potatoes with their firm, white flesh served simply with a sprinkling of salt and a dab of sweet butter. With spring festivals like Shavuot ahead and a season where names like BABY SQUASH TRIO WITH SHALLOTS AND FRESH HERBS Eat this quick, fresh dish hot as a vegetable or at room temperature as a salad. 1/4 cup olive oil 2 pounds mixed baby squash (such as zucchini and pattypan) 1/2 cup chopped shallots 1/4 cup chicken or vegetable broth 4-6 T. drained capers, minced (to taste) 1/2 cup fresh chopped fresh parsley 1 T. fresh rosemary 3 T. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt and pepper to taste Heat oil in large skillet over medi- um-high heat. Add the squash, shal- lots and broth and cover the skillet with a lid or cookie sheet. Cook squash for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Uncover the skillet, and sauté the vegetables until the liquid evaporates. Remove the skillet from heat and add remaining ingredients and toss well. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 8 MINTED AND DILLED PEA AND NEW POTATO SALAD A simple and lovely salad to accom- pany most anything, especially poached or broiled fish. 2 pounds small new potatoes, any color, unpeeled 1/4 cup white wine vinegar 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1/2 cup regular or light mayon- naise 1/4 cup regular or light sour cream 2 T. light olive oil 4 cups shelled fresh peas or frozen peas, thawed 1/3 cup fresh chopped mint leaves, any variety 1/4 cup fresh chopped dill kosher salt and pepper to taste Place whole potatoes in a large pot. Add enough water to cover them by about 2-3 inches. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to simmer and cook the potatoes gently until just tender, about 15 minutes. Drain the pota- toes and cool slightly. Cut the pota- toes into large chunks and transfer to a large bowl. While the potatoes are cooking, bring a saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Drop the peas into the boiling water and cook for 5 minutes, until tender. Drain and rinse with cold water. Add the peas to the potatoes and toss. Add remaining ingredients and toss the potato salad. Adjust seasonings and serve. You may make this up to a day ahead, but re-mix, adding more lemon juice, olive oil and seasonings if needed. Makes 8 servings. GARLIC HONEY ASPARAGUS WITH CHIVES AND ASIAGO CHEESE 2 T. butter 2 T. olive oil 1 t. minced garlic 2 pounds very thin asparagus, tough ends removed or 3-4 large asparagus per person, tough ends removed and stalks peeled with a vegetable peeler 1 T. honey kosher salt and pepper to taste 2 T. minced chives 1/2 cup freshly grated Asiago cheese Heat butter and olive oil in a large skillet. Add the garlic and saute for 1 minute. Add the asparagus spears and saute, moving the asparagus around so that it's all coated. Reduce heat to medium and cover the skillet with a lid. Remove lid and drizzle honey over. Cook, stirring, until the honey is dissolved and the asparagus is coated again. Remove the asparagus to a heated platter and sprinkle with salt and pepper and minced chives. Serve with freshly grated Aisago cheese on the side. Makes 8 servings. SPRING VEGETABLE SOUP 2 T. olive oil 1 t. minced garlic 3 cups thin sliced leek rounds (white and light green parts only) 1 cup thin sliced carrot rings 5 cups water or vegetable broth 1 can (14-oz. approx.) diced toma- toes (in juice) 2 cups shelled fresh fava beans or one 10-oz. package frozen baby lima beans, thawed 5 oz. thin French green beans (haricot vert), trimmed, cut into 1-inch pieces 8 oz. asparagus, tough ends removed, spears cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces 3 fresh morel mushrooms, sliced into thin circles (or 1 cup mush- rooms, sliced thin) 1/2 cup dry orzo (or 1 cup cooked wild rice) 2 t. fresh oregano leaves 1/2 cup fresh chopped basil kosher salt and pepper to taste freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional) Heat oil in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic, leeks and carrot; saute until vegetables are tender, about 6 minutes. Add water or broth and tomatoes with liquid and bring to boil. Add fava beans and green beans, reduce heat and simmer for 10 miri- utes. Add asparagus, mushrooms, orzo, oregano, basil, salt and pepper and cook for 10 minutes more. Adjust seasonings and serve hot with freshly grated cheese sprinkled on top. Makes 8-12 servings. ❑ 4/5 2002 85