A homemade vinaigrette is versatile and changeable. ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News T here are those who swear by Italian dressing. Not just for salads, either. It's often used as marinade as well. Many a chick- en breast has soaked before grilling. And there's a good reason for it, too. The lemon, vinegai-, or wine (not the oil) in the marinade breaks up the muscle of the meat for a softer, more tender texture. Herbs and spices impart flavor to foods. The oil offers flavor and a nonstick quality to cooked meats and something called "mouth-feel" to salads and cold dishes. Vinaigrettes are easy to make. They can be simple — vine- gar and oil — or complex, with special nut oils and flavored vinegars as well as any assortment of spices and herbs. VINAIGRETTE 3/4 cup olive oil 1 t. fresh minced garlic or 1 T. roasted garlic 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 2 T. fresh lemon juice 1 T. grainy mustard (any kind) 1 t. dried oregano 1 t. dried tarragon 1 t. kosher salt 1/2 t. fresh ground black pepper 3 T. capers Pour ingredients into a jar with a tight-fitting lid and store for up to one month. Makes 1 1/2 cups. The following recipe for vinaigrette is one you should copy and tape to an inside cupboard. It's that good. Splash it on your salad if you must, but realize the potential for this staple dressing. Keep in mind, that everything you change — add or delete — will make this an entirely different sauce. Change the red wine vinegar to balsamic. Use champagne instead of vinegar and change the lemon juice to orange juice for a light fruity dressing. Skip the mustard and add a couple of tablespoons of rasp- berry preserves for raspberry vinaigrette. Add fresh cilantro and substract tarragon. Use all lemon (no vinegar) and it's Middle Eastern. Fresh ginger, sugar, rice vinegar, soy sauce, a spoonful of sesame oil and sesame seeds (no mustard or herbs), and it's Asian. Don't be shy. MARINATED BUFFALO MOZZARELLA 1 pound. fresh Mozzarella balls packed in water 1/2 cup kalamata or other good quality olives 1/2 cup fresh minced parsley or basil 2 T. lightly toasted pinenuts Vinaigrette Slice cheese into about 6 slices per cheese ball. Overlap cheese slices on medium platter or other serving or storing dish. Shake the vinaigrette well and drizzle about one-third over the cheese slices. Cover the platter with plastic wrap, refrigerate and marinate for up to two days. Remove the cheese from the refrigerator and allow the cheese to come to room temperature, about an hour. Arrange olives over the cheese and sprinkle with parsley or basil and pinenuts. Serve alone as an appetizer, or over fresh greens as a salad. Makes 20 servings. MARINATED STEAK WITH WATERCRESS Eqaully good with chicken breast or any cut of lamb. watercress . — one bunch for 2 steaks 1 inch-thick (or thicker) rib, London broil or other steak (about 10 oz. per person, or more) vinaigrette Discard thick stems from water- cress, leaving thinner stems attached to the leaves. Place steaks in a non- reactive bowl or dish large enough to hold steaks. Shake the vinaigrette and pour some over the steaks (fig- ure about 1/4 cup per steak). Allow the steak to marinate for 4 hours or - up to 2 days, turning once a day during the marinating. Grill the steaks: Heat grill to very hot and set rack 5 to 6 inches over glowing coals. Grill about 3-5 min- utes on each side for medium-rare, or more if the steaks are very thick (Alternatively, grill steak in a hot, well-seasoned ridged grill pan over moderately high heat.) Serve hot, garnished with watercress and with vinaigrette on the side. VEGETABLE MELANGE VINAIGRETTE 12 small new or red potatoes, unpeeled.,. halved 24 baby carrots (peeled) 1/2 pound green beans or haricots verts (thin French green beans), trimmed but left whole 3 small zucchini, sliced diagonally into 1/2-inch slices 1 head cauliflower, cut into flo- rets, long stems trimmed 36 approx. grape tomatoes 1 cup fresh chopped parsley Have ready a colander in the sink. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Cook potatoes until tender, about 12-15 minutes. Using a large slotted spoon, remove the potatoes to the colander and rinse with cold water and drain very, very well (you may blot them with paper towel if they appear very wet). Arrange the potatoes in the center of a platter. Bring the water to a boil again and blanche-the remaining vegeta- bles, one at a time until al dente . (cook for about a minute or two each, except carrots which require more cooking time). Arrange the vegetables in groups around the potatoes. Shake the vinaigrette and pour about half over the vegetables (if you like your vegetables dressed more, add more dressing or serve some on the side). Serves 12, very generously. VINAIGRETTE page 76 3/1 2002 75