ANNABRI. COHEN Sraff photo by Kriga Husa Special to the Jewish News here was food before portabella mushrooms. lrecently had an insatiable urge for pineapple upside-down cake -- the real, old-fashioned homemade kind with maraschino cherries in the centers of the canned pineap- ple rings. Another day I had to have blintzes — cheesy, fried in real butter and served with sweetened blueberries no less. At just about the same time, a fellow I know showed me his mother's favorite cookbook, writ- ten in 1948, complete with Scotch-taped binding and all. In those days, trendy cookbook names with gimmicky recipes weren't necessary. And shelves full of the latest lowfat and fusion tomes were inconceivable. I could be wrong, but it seems to me that in America, just feed- ing a family three-squares a day was every mother's duty. Of course nothing is ever that simple. Leafing yellowed pages with penciled check marks next to fam- ily favorites and margin notes advising of ways to improve or shortcut recipes was an education in itself. "I do not precook crust. You can, but you must watch it close if you do." You can almost imagine someone saying this Did she know that these notes written in the virtually lost art of longhand would be read 50-some years later? Page after page of recipes revealed simple, no-nonsense names of foods. There was no Penne Pasta with Wisconsin Cheddar Bichamel. There was Macaroni and Cheese. And the recipes were simply writ- ten in a paragraph or two, not the full pages we often see in today's books. Instructions for recipes like tuna casserole made with cream of mushroom soup, and Welsh Rarebit, that melted cheese mix- ture served on sqita re vvhite bread toast, waste no words and offer no serving suggestions. It's assumed you know how these foods are eaten. I wanted all these foods I craved. Novv. Like when I was 10. Forget the balsamic pesto vinai- grette and crehme brulee. When it comes to cravings, bring on the French dressing made with two parts Mayo to one part ketchup and good or lemon squares They're not sexy foods, but they sure taste and feel comfy. So make yourself a peanut butter and grape jelly sandwich and read through the following recipes that'll take you on a trip down memory lane. WELSH RAREBIT 3 T. hatter 1 T. flour 1/2 cup milk 2 cups (packed) grated cheddar or American cheese 2 T. Dijon mustard (optional) 6 slices toasted bread slices of choice Combine butter_and flour in a medium saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Whisk in the milk and cook, whisking until the sauce is thick. Add the cheese and mus- tard and cook, stirring, until the cheese is melted. Spoon the mix- ture over toast slices and serve. Makes 6 servings. Cheese blintzes with blueberry sauce PINEAPPLE UPSIDE DOWN CAKE Topping: 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter or margarine 1 114 cups brown sugar 12 canned pineapple rings, drained Maraschino cherries Cak I cup (2 sticks) butter or margarine 6129 200] 79