beauty PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS IVEY Quick makeup Lighting is very- important in makeup application. 'I'he correct brush is essential. Start with the eves first. Tap shadow in crease of eye. Light peach for a darker complexion works well. Change your formula for day and night. omen should change their makeup like they change their accLssorics, - SaVS Joseph Costa, \y-es Saint Laurcnt's national make- up artist. Costa recently visited Saks Fifth Avenue in Trov, where he glossed, blended and shaded the face of Lindsay- Blau Rubin for Silk magazine (ii lhe Jewish .WWS. R bin, 25, of Birmingham, usually We'd IS ii iiiiaI Makellp SO she was the perfect candidate for Costa. "N lv job is to take the look and tailor it to each person, - he adds. Costa began by accentuating Robin's hazel eyes. I le used the Radiant "Ibuch (t'oundation packaged like a ballpoint pen) product as an eye shadow base. Costa explains throughout the process how he uses a sheer wash of color to allow Rubin's natural tone to emerge. "I() soften her eyes and keep the sparkle Costa applies bronze tones with the eyeliner and shadow. The finishing touch on the eves is the unexpected addition of blue mascara. Sonic of Yves Saint I,aurent's new products feature marbled lipsticks and shadows, Yvhich allows Costa to interpret the intensity of the color. "We have every, shade to create every mood," says Costa. - Carla Schwartz • II \I • ', Ili \I III] J\ a00Poi''' • „.0 Top: Costa explains the art of blending and shading to Lindsay Blau Rubin. The shape of the brush con- trols the makeup application. Above: Rubin looks radiant in a creme foundation, brown eyeliner No. 5 Khol pencil, bronze shadow and No. 19 Fuchsia Pink lipstick. Rubin also wears a Dee Angelo black and white diamond lariat ($28,000), exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue. !L11-1 •