INSIDE: Robinson Scholar Is Announced 86 The Bar, Speeddating And Softball 87 Doctors Win Local, National Honors . . . . 88 ISRAELI FLAVORS paragus with tahini yogurt dressing. 0 Some simple, special tastes of the Middle East. 7 ANNABEL COHEN - Special to the Jewish News here's Jewish food and there's Israeli food. Jewish food is the food of our heritage, foods rich in our own families' traditions. They can consist of dishes made special because of religious ritual ingredients, such as matzah, challah, haroset. Jewish foods are also the fare that has come to symbolize a culture — blintzes, bagels, latkes. These are the foods even non-Jews associate with , modern American Jewry. Israeli food is the food of Israel. These are foods native to the geogra- phy of the land. Dishes made with cit- rus, olives, nuts. The-reality of this type of food is that if borders meant nothing, one would be hard pressed to distinguish between the food of Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and others. The few distinguishing factors are often the result of a land's terrain and proximity to a body of water. Coastal cities his- torically have had access to more vari- eties of fish than those in interior areas. In grassy areas, meat has been more popular than fish. But, for the entire last century Jews made aliyah to an ancient homeland. Culinarily, that means that many of those who changed countries brought their most recent food traditions as well. Polish, Russian, Persian, French, American and other food tastes all became a part of this new Israeli lifestyle. A fusion of flavors resulted. It seems there's everything in Israel now — Chinese food, hamburgers, pizza, sushi, fusion cooking. When American Jews visited Israel 20, 30, 40 years ago, the food seemed very different from the food of the United States. The Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavors were exotic. The combinations of olives with fish and chicken cooked with unusual grains and dried fruits were delicious, but didn't remind Jews of European descent of the foods they grew up with. Now that Israel is 53, American Jews embrace the flavors associated with ancient Israel's arid and coastal environment. The tart lemon paired with parsley din 5/25 2001 83